Crock Pot Hot Process Salt Soap Bar Recipe

     According to this site, historically lye was made from washing rainwater through wood ashes (potash). This is clearly a survival project for another day. The resulting soap was liquid, which was fine for home use, but when bar soap became more popular, salt was added to solidify the bars, making them more marketable than bottles of soap. Salt soap, now made with sodium instead of potassium, is in bar form and the salt is used as a gentle exfoliant, giving it the name Salt Spa Soap. It is known to be good for acne and dry skin, so I figured it might be a good holiday gift for the men in the family.

     It would be really interesting to solar distill ocean water at home and use the salt for soap making. The water would be probably safer than some tap waters, too.

     I used 'hot process' method of preparing this soap. Most soapers use cold process with salt, because the salt makes the soap 'seize'. This is only my second time using crock pot hot process, but I love it because the lye visibly saponifies and the soap cures almost instantly. Just before the soap was at the "mashed potato" stage, I dumped all the salt in at once and stirred furiously. The salt tried settling to the bottom. Once I had it all mixed in, I glopped it into the mold. It cooled enough to turn out and cut in about half an hour. This method might not have worked well for a larger batch, and I have a huge crock pot, so be aware.

     Before you start, remember what Mother always said; "Never throw salt in your eyes."

Here's the recipe.

Detergent-Free, Natural, Unscented Handmade Vegan Salt Lye Soap.
80% Coconut
10% Olive
10% Soybean
Water as a percent of oil weight 35%
Superfat 15%
Salt 80% of oil weight


For 880g of oils
Lye - 137g
Water - 334g
Coconut Oil - 704g
Olive Oil - 88g
Soybean Oil - 88g
Salt - 660g

Hibiscus and Lemongrass Soap

     This unscented soap was my first attempt at using the technique of soaping known as 'crockpot hot process', which I have decided is so easy it is the method that I want to use for all future batches. Not only does it help me actually visualize the ephemeral 'trace' which other soapers discuss, but the batch is ready for use shortly after slicing, usually the same day.

     The hibiscus and lemongrass came from perennials in the garden, and I have cooked them into a tea-like fluid after observing the advice of the lady soapers over at Homesteading Today. In short, they advised that fresh herbs tend to brown and look unsightly if put directly into the soap. The tea, however, lacks the pungent lemongrass scent. Both hibiscus and lemongrass are known to have healing properties, and at the very least, the tea has more vitamins in it than regular, filtered water.

     Here is the recipe:

Detergent free, Natural, Unscented Lemongrass and Hibiscus Handmade Castile-Mix Vegan Lye Soap.
Water 38%, Superfat 5%, for 1100g of oils.

Water/Tea - 418g
Lye - 151g
Olive Oil - 715g
Coconut Oil - 220g
Soybean Oil - 165g

     One chunk had a large glob of undissolved oil, which I was not pleased to find. Other than that, they came out very well, and smell like the castile base with a faint herbal scent.

     Here they are decorated and labeled for the ladies in the family for gifts for the holidays.

Yucca gloriosa, Spanish Dagger

Uses : Fencing, Edible, Forage, Fiber, Wildlife. Native to : Southeastern US.
     There seems to be a lot of confusion over Spanish Bayonet and Spanish Dagger on the internet, and if you search for images of one or the other you will get both plants, some of which are improperly labeled. Here is what IFAS has to say on the subject:

"Spanish bayonet is often confused with Spanish Dagger. Leaf margins on Spanish Dagger (Yucca gloriosa) are smooth, whereas those on Yucca aloifolia (Spanish bayonet) are rough. The outer halves of the leaves on Spanish dagger also bend toward the ground, whereas those on Spanish bayonet do not."

     Finally, we have a clear ruling. I had thought my plants were Spanish Bayonet for the last few years in error, they were actually the less painful Spanish Dagger - although still quite painful! The leaves are rigid and spiky, and because the leaves point in every single direction it makes that plants as difficult to handle as a porcupine rolled in peanut oil. The spiky painfulness is probably why this plant is almost never commercially propagated, sad because it is a disease-free, sun-and-sand-loving, pest-resistant plant.
     It is a native in the yucca/agave family, and the flowers and fruit are edible. The white flowers attract bees. It is very easy to propagate, just dig any runners from the base of the plant and move to a sunny spot of the landscape. Very attractive and easy to care for in containers. The leaves are edible to rabbits. Can tolerate beach conditions. The roots contain saponins, but can be cooked to become edible. Or, perhaps, to yield soap? Like Century Plant, the leaves can be made into fibers for ropes, basketry, and clothing.
     It may get 15-20 feet high, then break off during a violent storm, as happened here. These leaves are going to become rabbit manure over the next few weeks.

Spanish Bayonet, Highways and Byways of Florida,  1918.

Perennial Vegetables for the South

     Ever since I found this list I have been returning to it whenever I might be going to a plant sale or nursery. There are many plant sales in the spring and fall, so here's a great list of plants that produce food and grow well here in Florida.
     Most, if not all, of these plants can also be fed to the rabbits, except for maybe taro.                                        

Perennial in all of the Hot and Humid zone:

Allium ampeloprasum perennial sweet leek

Allium cepa aggregatum shallot

Allium cepa aggregatum potato onion

Allium cepa proliferum walking onion

Allium fistulosum Welsh onion

Allium tuberosum garlic chives

Apios americana groundnut

Aralia cordata udo

Arundinaria gigantean canebrake bamboo

Asparagus officinalis asparagus

Asphodeline lutea yellow asphodel

Atriplex halimus saltbush

Bambusa spp. clumping bamboos

Brassica oleracea acephala tropical tree kale

Bunias orientalis Turkish rocket

Camassia scillioides wild hyacinth

Canna edulis achira

Cedrella sinensis fragrant spring tree

Cnidoscolus spp. bull nettles

Colocasia esculenta ‘Celery Stem’ taro

Colocasia esculenta taro, cocoyam, eddo, dasheen

Cynara cardunculus cardoon

Cynara scolymus ‘Purple Sicilian’ globe artichoke

Cyperus esculentus sativa chufa

Dioscorea bulbifera air potato

Dioscorea japonica jinenjo

Dioscorea opposita Chinese yam

Diplotaxis spp. sylvetta arugula

Helianthus tuberosa sunchoke

Hemerocallis daylily

Malva moschata musk mallow

Nasturtium officinale watercress

Nelumbo nucifera water lotus

Oenanthe javanica water celery

Opuntia spp. spineless nopale cactus

Petasites japonicus fuki

Phyllostachys spp. running bamboos

Phytolacca americana pokeweed

Polygonatum biflorum canaliculatum giant Solomon’s seal

Qiongzhuea tumidissinoda running bamboo

Rumex acetosa French sorrel

Rumex acetosa ‘Profusion’ sorrel

Rumex acetosella sheep sorrel

Rumex scutatus silver shield sorrel

Sagittaria latifolia arrowhead

Sagittaria sinensis Chinese arrowhead

Sasa kurilensis chishima-zasa bamboo

Scorzonera hispanica scorzonera

Semiarundinaria fastuosa temple bamboo

Stachys sieboldii Chinese artichoke

Taraxacum officinale dandelion

Tilia spp. linden

Perennial in colder parts of the Hot and Humid zone:

Allium tricoccum ramps

Chenopodium bonus-henricus good king Henry

Cicorium intybus chicory

Crambe maritima sea kale

Laportaea canadensis wood nettle

Levisticum officinale lovage

Matteuccia struthiopteris ostrich fern

Urtica dioica nettles

Perennial in warmer parts of the Hot and Humid zone, or perennial with protection. Most of these species can also be grown as annuals in the colder parts of this zone.

Abelmoschus manihot edible hibiscus (as dieback perennial)

Alternanthera sissoo sissoo spinach

Arracacia xanthorhiza arracacha

Basella alba Malabar spinach

Brassica oleracea wild cabbage

Brassica oleracea acephala ‘Western Front’ perennial kale

Brassica oleracea acephala ‘Tree Collards’, ‘Walking Stick Kale’

Brassica oleracea alboglabra gai lon

Brassica oleracea botrytis perennial broccoli, including ‘9 Star’

Brassica oleracea ramosa branching bush kale, including ‘Dorbentons’

Capsicum annum ‘Perennial Capsicum’ sweet pepper

Carica papaya papaya

Coccinia grandis ‘Sterile’ perennial cucumber (probably as dieback perennial in colder parts)

Cnodoscilus chayamansa chaya (as dieback perennial)

Cucurbita ficifolia Malabar gourd

Dendrocalamus spp. clumping bamboos (probably as dieback perennial even in warmest parts)

Dioscorea alata white yam

Dioscorea esculenta asiatic lesser yam

Dioscorea trifida cush cush yam

Dolichos lablab hyacinth bean

Eleocharis dulcis water chestnut

Gigantochloa spp. clumping bamboos (probably as dieback perennial in bad winters)

Gynura crepioides Okinawa spinach

Hibiscus acetosella cranberry hibiscus

Ipomoea aquatica water spinach

Ipomoea batatas sweet potato

Momordica charantia bitter gourd

Manihot esculenta cassava

Moringa spp. moringa (as dieback perennial)

Musa x paradisica ‘Rajapuri’ banana (warmest parts, with long season protection)

Nastus elatus clumping bamboo

Oxalis tuberosa oca

Phaseolus coccineus runner bean

Phaseolus lunatus Lima bean

Phaseolus polysantus cache bean

Physalis pruinosa ground cherry

Psophocarpus tetragonobolus ‘Day Length Neutral’ winged bean

Psophocarpus tetragonobolus winged bean

Saccharum edule pitpit

Sauropus androgynous katuk (as dieback perennial)

Sechium edule chayote

Smallianthus sonchifolia yacon

Solanum tuberosum & spp. potato

Tetragonia tetragonioides New Zealand spinach

Trichostigma octandrum basket vine (as dieback perennial)

Xanthosoma brasiliense belembe

Xanthosoma saggitifolium tannier, yautia, malanga (roots need long season)

Xanthosoma violaceum violet-stem taro (roots need long season)

Big List of Rabbit Recipes

Stuffed Rabbit
1 rabbit
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
1 1/4 cups stock
2 cups breadcrumbs
1 large onion, chopped
2 large apples, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons parsley
1 teaspoon thyme
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoons butter
1 egg
Pepper to taste

     Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (180 degrees C). Wash and dry rabbit. Fry onions gently in 4 tablespoons butter. Add apple to onions and fry until soft. Mix onions, apple and 1 tablespoon butter with all other stuffing ingredients, and brown quickly. Place rabbit in a casserole dish, stuff, surround with excess stuffing, add well-seasoned stock, and cook in oven for 1 3/4 hours, or until tender.

Hasenpfeffer
6 - 8 slices bacon, finely chopped
2 rabbits
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup onion, finely chopped
3/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 bay leaf

     Heat the roaster or casserole over moderate heat and cook the bacon, stirring and turning it frequently, until crisp, about 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Set the pan with bacon fat aside for a few moments. Cut the rabbit into serving pieces. Cut away and discard the belly meat. Add the salt, pepper, and flour to a brown paper bag. Add a few rabbit pieces to the bag and shake to coat with flour mixture; repeat with remaining rabbit pieces. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Heat the reserved bacon fat in the pan over high heat until it sputters. Brown the rabbit pieces on all sides, in batches; this should take about 10 minutes. Transfer them to a serving plate. Pour off all but 2 tablespoon of fat and cook the onions in it until they are soft and translucent. Pour in the vinegar and chicken stock and add the bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat, scraping up any browned bits clinging to the bottom and sides of the pan. Return the rabbit with juices to the roaster or casserole. Add the drained bacon. Cover the vessel tightly, and simmer for 1 1/2 hours, or until the rabbits are tender but not falling apart. Serve the rabbit directly from the roaster or casserole, or arrange the pieces attractively on a heated platter.

Braised Rabbit with Prunes

One 3 to 3 1/2 pound rabbit, cut into six to eight serving parts

Salt

Olive oil

1 Tbsp butter

3-4 large shallots, sliced, about 1 cup

1 clove garlic, minced

1 cup dry white wine (or chicken stock with a tablespoon of vinegar)

Freshly ground black pepper

7 ounces (200 grams) pitted prunes (dried plums)

Several sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

1 rabbit liver (optional, should be sold with the rabbit)

1 Tbsp vinegar (optional)

     Heat 3 Tbsp olive oil in a large thick-bottomed Dutch oven (I used a 5 quart) on medium-high heat. Add a tablespoon of butter. Pat dry the rabbit pieces, sprinkle all over with salt, and working in batches, brown on all sides in the pan. Remove the rabbit pieces from the pan. Add the sliced shallots, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the minced garlic clove and cook for 30 seconds more. Add the white wine and increase the heat to high. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Let the wine boil, until reduced by at least a half.Lower the heat to low (you may want to move the pot to the smallest burner on your stove). Arrange the rabbit pieces, prunes, thyme, and bay leaf in the pan. Sprinkle with black pepper to taste. Cover tightly and let cook for 45 minutes. (Cooking time assumes you are starting with a rabbit that has been brought to near room temp before cooking. If you are using a rabbit straight from the fridge, it may take a few more minutes to cook through. Also, if you keep lifting up the lid to check on the rabbit, it will increase the needed cooking time.) After the rabbit is cooked through, if you want, you can intensify the flavor of the sauce using the rabbit's liver. The liver should have been included with the rabbit from your butcher, just like whole chickens come with the giblets. (Don't worry, the liver won't make your dish taste like liver. You can even try just a little amount to taste to make sure. The liver acts as a "liaison", thickening the sauce and making it richer.) Purée the rabbit liver with 1 Tbsp of vinegar (I used wine vinegar, but cider or white vinegar will do). Remove the rabbit pieces, prunes, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf from the pot (discard thyme and bay leaves) to a serving dish. Whisk the puréed liver vinegar mixture into the sauce in the pot and cook for another 10 minutes. (If the sauce is still too thin, you can thicken further with corn starch or flour.) Then drizzle the sauce over and around the rabbit and prunes.

Rabbit in Wine (Lapin au Vin)
6 slices bacon
1 1/2 -3 lb fryer rabbit, cut up
2 1/2 cups dry red wine
1 cup (10 3/4 oz) condensed chicken broth
1 T ketchup
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup filtered cold water
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 jar (16 oz) whole onions, drained
1 can (4 oz) mushrooms, drained

     Fry bacon until crisp. Remove from frying pan, drain and crumble. Cook lapin (rabbit pieces) in the bacon fat on medium heat until light brown - 5 minutes each side. Move lapin into a 4 quart dutch oven. Stir in crumbled bacon, wine, chicken broth, ketchup, thyme, salt, pepper, and garlic. Heat to boiling; reduce heat. Cover and simmer until the thickest pieces are done, approximately 40-45 minutes. Remove lapin pieces; skim fat, if there is any. Shake water and flour in a tightly covered container; gradually stir into broth. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. Boil and stir 1 minute. Stir in onions and mushrooms. Return lapin to sauce. Heat to boiling - approximately 2 minutes. Serve over a bed of rice, noodles or mashed potatoes.

Rabbit Cobbler
3 tbsp olive oil
1 leek, well washed and chopped
Salt and black pepper
2 c quartered button mushrooms
1 ½ c or more chicken stock or, if you have the foresight, rabbit stock
1 sprig fresh, chopped rosemary, plus more to mix into the cobbler batter
2 medium carrots, cut into coins
1 butchered rabbit
1 c peas, frozen or fresh
2 tbsp assorted fresh herbs (e.g., chives, lemon thyme, etc.)
1 c corn, frozen or fresh
2 tbsp cornstarch
2 c flour
1 ½ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
½ tsp salt
4 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into bits
1 cup buttermilk
2 eggs

     Heat oven to 375°F. Put oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When oil is hot, add the leek, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook until liquid has released and evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add stock and rosemary; bring to a boil, and let bubble for a minute or two, then add carrots and rabbit and reduce heat so the liquid simmers. Cook until carrots are almost tender and rabbit is cooked through — 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the type of rabbit. Pull out the rabbit parts and pull the meat from the bone. Chop up the meat and add it back into the pot. Add peas, herbs, and corn and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are brightly colored and just tender, another minute or so. Whisk cornstarch with a few tablespoons of broth to make a slurry. Add slurry to pot and stir until liquid thickens slightly. Transfer everything to an ovenproof dish and set aside.
Put flour in a food processor with rosemary, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add butter and process until mixture resembles small peas, no more than 30 seconds. (You can also do this by hand, using two knives, a fork, your fingers, or a pastry cutter). Transfer mixture to a bowl and mix in buttermilk and eggs until it just comes together; it should be sticky. Drop spoonfuls of batter on top of vegetables and rabbit and smooth with a knife, covering as much surface area as possible but leaving a few gaps for steam to escape. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes until golden on top and bubbly underneath. Scoop into bowls and serve immediately.



Rabbit Ragout
2 pounds rabbit, cut into small serving pieces
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup diced yellow onion
1/3 cup diced celery
1/3 cup diced carrot
1 small fennel bulb, diced
1-½ teaspoons fennel seed, toasted in a dry skillet until fragrant, then crushed
2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic

2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons Pernod
1 cup dry white wine
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
¼ heaping teaspoon saffron threads
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth or seasoned homemade chicken stock
1 can (28 ounces) plum tomatoes in juice

     Season the rabbit all over with salt and pepper. Reserve the rabbit liver, if available, in the refrigerator. In a large braising pan or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Brown the rabbit pieces, about 2 minutes on each side. (Do not crowd the pan; brown the rabbit in batches, if necessary.) As rabbit is browned, transfer to a plate. Add the onion, celery, carrot and fennel to the pan, and sauté for about 3 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Stir in the fennel seed, garlic and tomato paste, and sauté 1 minute. Add the Pernod and wine and reduce for 5 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan to get all the browned bits up. Add the bay leaves, thyme, saffron and broth, and using clean hands, crush the tomatoes and add them to the mixture with their juice. Return the rabbit and any accumulated juices to the pan. Poke rabbit down into liquid to make sure it is covered. Bring to a simmer and braise, uncovered, keeping the sauce at a constant low simmer for about 50 to 60 minutes or until meat is very tender. Remove the sauce from the heat and transfer the rabbit meat from the sauce to a baking sheet. Discard the bay leaves. Return the sauce to very low heat. Very finely chop the reserved liver and stir into the hot sauce. When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bones. Discard the bones, chop the meat into rustic pieces and mix it back into the sauce. (Be careful of small bones.) Taste the sauce for salt and season to taste. Enough for 1 pound fresh fettuccine pasta.

Bigos, Hunter's Stew
1 3/4 lb sauerkraut
4 strips bacon, diced
1 small head cabbage, thinly sliced
Small handful of dried mushrooms
1/2 lb boneless venison, leg, or a stewing cut (not the loin), cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 lb boneless stew beef, such as chuck, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 lb pork or veal shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/4 cup flour
3 tablespoons vegetable oil or lard
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 cup red wine
1/2 lb smoked kielbasa, thickly sliced
1 cup pitted prunes, quartered
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Bread for serving, preferably rustic and dark, such as a Russian loaf


     Drain the sauerkraut, place it in a medium saucepan, and add 2 cups water and bacon pieces. Cover and boil over medium heat for 20 minutes or longer, until the sauerkraut is very tender and the bacon is cooked. Meanwhile, put the fresh cabbage and dried mushrooms in a separate saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Continue boiling until the cabbage is tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. Rinse all the meat and pat dry. Put the flour in a shallow bowl and toss the meat to coat. Heat 1 tbsp of the vegetable oil over medium heat in a stew pot large enough to hold all the meat and vegetables. Cook the onion until softened, remove with a slotted spoon, and set aside. Add the remaining 2 tbsp oil to the pot and lightly brown the meat, in batches, over medium heat, 2 to 3 minutes per side, transferring the meat to a plate when finished.When all the meat has been browned, raise the heat to high, pour in the wine, and boil briefly, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Return the meat and all its resting juices back to the pot, and add the onion, kielbasa, prunes, cabbage, and the sauerkraut and bacon mixture, along with its cooking water. Salt generously, add several grinds of pepper, and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat, cover the pot with the lid slightly askew, and simmer on very low heat for a good 2 to 3 hours, until the meat falls apart and the broth is rich and brown. Stir the stew occasionally, and ensure that the liquid isn’t evaporating too quickly (add a small amount of water when necessary). Serve with bread.

Suburban Apathy

     Has anything really changed in America since "The Feminine Mystique" was written in 1963? Moreover I would put it out there that people that work frequently, if not more often, feel unfulfilled, with the exception of entrepreneurs and small business owners. The apathy of suburbia, which crosses gender barriers nowadays, is a large part of the organic, local food movement, but it is about much more than food. It is about the need for artistic, creative thought and interactions with peers. It is about a need for, well, everything.

Scrub Trees for Survival Fodder

     There has been a growing movement for farmers to seek additional feed sources for drought seasons and winter. Traditionally farmers would set aside dry feed or silage for the winter, but many have found themselves unprepared for warm seasons of extreme drought. This, like everything else, makes pastured meat more expensive.

     The Australians have really been looking into this problem, and they have suggested planting trees for fodder during drought. If done with alley-cropping techniques, this can actually increase pasture production thanks to the windbreaks and shade the trees will produce.

     If your animals are having trouble accepting the survival fodder, or you aren't sure what to feed them, more information is here. Rabbits can eat anything horses can eat, and I think goats and cattle as well. 

     Some of the best agricultural information is coming from the tropics these days.

Once fodder trees began to be planted on-farm, the 

technology spread rapidly throughout the region, as

farmers quickly realized the nutritional benefits of 

feeding fresh leaves to their cows.

Privet, Ligustrum japonicum

Uses: Xeriscaping, Wildlife. Native to: Japan
     This exotic shrub is widely planted as a privacy hedge. It should be considered for other reasons though, because it is very attractive to birds, bees, and butterflies. It grows very well in sand and full sun.
     Although a member of the olive family, all parts are known to be toxic. I am unable to find actual research on this, and relatives of this plant have been found to kill horses.
     Not a native, but not an invasive either. Despite statements made on gardening websites, the State of Florida officially has not found privet in undisturbed areas, so it is considered a safe non-native. I would definitely landscape with this and other plants if I was attempting to xeriscape a property. I would concur with IFAS on this one; Ligustrum does not reseed as others say it does.
     Members of the Ligustrum family have been used in Europe for adding natural color to clothing.

Raw Meat May Not be Enough for Your Cat

     Recently a study was completed at a zoo in Illinois regarding the raw meat diet. It covered at least 225 large felids who were fed diets of raw beef, bison, elk, and horse. Care was taken to ensure the meat was as fresh as possible, though the meats were trimmed for the cats.
     It can be inferred that our house cats have the same nutritional needs as the larger cats.
     It was found that though the meats were digested readily, the nutritional needs of the cats were not completely met, and the cats were lacking in essential fatty acids. The elk diet was lacking in overall fats.
     I'm not about to travel to harvest some bison for my cat, so I've sent an email to the person in charge of the study, which overall, I thought was done well. The sample size was adequate to draw the conclusions presented (unlike some medical studies!) This study would be much more useful/practical if it focused on readily-available local meat sources.

My email:

How well did the cats (large or small) do on a diet of rabbit, guinea pig, mice, and small game birds like quail and pigeon?

I only ask because that kind of dish is much more likely to be what most people are going to want to feed their pet cats were cat food prices to increase.

What kind of natural source would you recommend for the missing essential acids? Maybe grasshoppers, eggs, fish, or Black Soldier Fly Larvae? 

Kelly's response:

Chrissy – good questions. We have not tested any of those ingredients in cats because our main focus has been on large captive exotic cats.  To apply more data to small captive exotics and domestic cats, we recently performed a study in which many smaller prey items, including rabbits, mice, rats, quail, and chicks, were analyzed for nutrient composition (protein, fat, etc.).  These data have not been published yet.  We have not tested the digestibility of those items in domestic or exotic cats though.

 As for fatty acid content, the main problem in our study was that trimmed meats had very little fat of any kind.  As long as fat is not trimmed off, numerous sources could be used.  This probably would not be an issue with whole prey items.  Those items, however, often have other problems (e.g., mineral deficiencies).  That data will be submitted for publication soon. 

     So... lesson learned, never trim the fat off of your lion's elk dinner!

Rabbit Nutrition: The Numbers

Purina Rabbit Chow Garden Recipe

 NATURAL, COMPLETE NUTRITION FOR ALL BREEDS OF RABBITS AND BUNNIES OF ALL AGES

Purina® Rabbit Chow™ Garden Recipe™ Natural AdvantEdge™ rabbit food is a fun-to-eat, wholesome blend of pellets, nutritious vegetables, fruits and seeds formulated for all breeds of rabbits and bunnies at all ages. It’s the fun way to feed your rabbits the very best!



GUARANTEED ANALYSIS

Crude Protein (Min).................................................... Crude Fat (Min).......................................................... Crude Fiber (Min)....................................................... Crude Fiber (Max)...................................................... Calcium (Ca) (Min)..................................................... Calcium (Ca) (Max).................................................... Phosphorus (P) (Min).................................................. Salt (NaCl) (Min)........................................................ Salt (NaCl) (Max) ...................................................... Vitamin A (Min)..........................................................

14.00% 2.00% 18.00% 22.00% 0.670% 1.10% 0.40% 0.20% 0.70% 3,500 IU/lb

INGREDIENTS

Dehydrated Alfalfa Meal, Ground Soybean Hulls, Wheat Middlings, Dehulled Soybean Meal, Carrot, Sunflower Seed, Papaya, Whole Oats, Cane Molasses, Ground Oat Hulls, Wheat Flour, Timothy Hay, Celery, Monocalcium Phosphate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Salt, Soybean Oil, DL-Methionine, Iron Oxide, Copper Sulfate, DL-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Menadione Sodium Bisulfite Complex, Calcium Pantothenate, Nicotinic Acid, Vitamin A Acetate, Riboflavin, Yeast Culture, Biotin, Dried Aspergillus Niger Fermentation Extract, Thiamine Mononitrate, Folic Acid, Vitamin B12 Supplement, Dried Yeast, Dried Enterococcus Faecium Fermentation Product, Dried Lactobacillus Acidophilus Ferment Product, Dried Yucca Shidigera Extract, Cholecalciferol, Cobalt Carbonate, Manganese Sulfate, Ethylenediamine Dihydriodide, Zinc Sulfate, Copper Chloride, Calcium Carbonate, Sodium Selenite.

     This nutrition label is straight from Purina's website, and they are arguably the largest producer of rabbit feed in the United States. It is known that animal food companies will buy the cheapest ingredients, regardless of source, that meets their standard of nutrition. This means that one day you could be buying pellets made of mostly alfalfa, and another day you could be buying pellets made of soybean. 

     In 1982, the Peace Corps published a pamphlet about rabbit nutrition, breaking it down simply by the type of rabbit (pregnant, resting, lactating) with nutrition profile that rabbit needs. Like people, rabbits need protein, fiber, carbohydrates, minerals, and vitamins. 
     If you were to use this to formulate your own feed, you would need to adjust the amounts for the size of your rabbits. Normally this would be measured by weight, and one kilogram is approximately 2.2 pounds.
     Overall, protein seems to be the largest limiting factor for rabbit production, as most of the minerals and fiber can come from the addition of a good quality hay. Some plant proteins are readily absorbed by the animal's digestion, others are not, and this needs to be taken into account when mixing a feed.

Girl Builds Pond, Part Seven

Papyrus, Cannas, 'Fruit Punch' Mint, Taro.

Girl Builds Pond. Part Six

Rant: Don't Read If You're Faint of Heart

     I don't usually have personal drama because after knowing what nutjobs most people are I limit my interaction with strangers in my personal life, outside of work and school that is. And am happier for it.
     But today, I noticed that all four of the hubcaps are missing off my car. They were there about two weeks ago when my dad helped me top up the tire pressure. Since I hate driving, I have maybe driven only twice since then. I quickly secured up the locks on the rabbits in the backyard.
     I don't understand why I am such a target. Is it because I live alone? Are my neighbors jealous because I have central air? Is it all crazy exes that I've dumped because they haven't treated me well? I did swear off former military guys and firefighters because they are all crazy and treat women like shit. I don't feel like I am beautiful or smart enough to make another woman so jealous as to do something like this, but anything is possible. I have a big mouth, maybe I upset someone? Maybe someone hates paramedical practitioners? I'm not working at the moment. Are people jealous of my amazing garden? How can they see it beneath all that grass?
     I seriously doubt someone stole them for their own use. My tires are ridiculously small and flimsy, they have to be special ordered from the tire store because they sams and walmart don't carry them. The hubcaps, are, of course, correspondingly tiny.
    I was just teased about the new clothesline, that someone might come up and steal my laundry from my carport. I laughed it off. Sure, that person should probably be the first one I suspect, but he would have nothing to gain from vandalizing me.
     So, WTF? FML.

Girl Builds Pond, Part Five

Girl Builds Pond, Part Four

Girl Builds Pond, Part Three

Girl Builds Pond, Part Two

Girl Builds Pond, Part One

Benefits vs. Arguments for Guerrilla Gardening

     Guerilla gardening is in full swing during the warmer months all across the United States. Likely a reaction to cooped-up urbanites retaliation against metropolitan space waste, guerrilla gardeners plant flowers and vegetables in areas that are otherwise laying fallow or abandoned.
     Some people aren't happy with guerrilla gardeners. Recently in Washington DC, the city removed hundreds of red, white, and blue flowering plants that had been placed by a guerrilla gardener on a sloping embankment, claiming that his climbing could lead to falling, which would incur liability for the taxpayers. They also claimed that there was no money in their budget for the upkeep of the plantings.
     Another recent article in the New York Times paints urban guerrilla gardeners in a negative light by supposing that a landscape of nothing but edibles will be a landscape without pollinators. This, of course, is untrue. I also emailed the author, Mariellé Anzelone, about her error concerning sassafrass. Her solution is not to avoid planting up the urban landscape, but to plant native wildflowers to promote diverse pollinators.

   "Urban activists should celebrate the indigenous wildflowers that sustain our pollinators beyond the short life span of fruit tree blossoms. In addition, we should incorporate native edibles into the planting palette. Blueberries, Juneberries and beach plums feed more species than just us humans."

     Anzelone and I agree on one thing, which is that native plants should be incorporated into any plan for regreening an urban zone. All too often city planners try to beautify by planting non-useful non-natives, like crepe myrtle and oleander. WE, the citizens, should be greening with natives and edibles like oak trees and others that were once found here in a time before pretty little homes.
     She neglects to point out that done properly, a neighborhood or area planted with nothing but edibles would still attract pollinators because the garden planners would want great diversity in their plantings. Anyone with a bit of gardening knowledge knows to plant more than one type of vegetable, or a time will come when you will be hungry. Does she think guerrilla gardeners are greening their cities with nothing but Irish potatoes, the nation's most popular vegetable? Or nothing but red delicious apples?
     As any permie can tell you, diversity in plantings is what promotes resistance to disease and pests. Planting a good deal of wildflowers will bring in butterflies and bees, but also bring in caterpillars and grasshoppers. You have to pick and choose your battles, and better to have a wide variety of edible or useful plantings than a lot of space wasted on toxics that attract plant-eaters. With the internet making distant knowledge available, and international shipping being how it is, there is no reason every abandoned easement can't be planted with useful edibles, or native edibles, or just native plants. Sweet potatoes from Japan, climbing beans from Germany, sugarcane from the Dominican Republic, the possibilities are endless. For some ideas for diverse edibles for Florida, check out my site and this site.
     For example, a maple tree might be useful in several ways, and is native. Native cottage roses are the same way. Both can be edible to humans and urban livestock and provide beauty. Roses attract pollinators. Maples provide shade and windbreaks, and can provide firewood. Almost any plant can be rated according to some simple points like these, and as long as plantings remain diverse, urban gardeners will do well with it.

     Eight Points for Identifying Useful Plants

     Edible to humans

     Edible to urban livestock

     Edible to urban wildlife

     Attract pollinators

     Provide beauty

     Provide shade and windbreaks

     Provide textiles or firewood for humans

     Provide habitat for urban animals

Bamboo

Native to: Asia.  Uses: Edible, Forage, Xeriscaping, Fencing, Fuel, Building Material, Clothing Textile.
     I love bamboo. It's got a very tropical, Asian feel to it, indeed, it is the definition plant for Japanese-style gardens. It grows very quickly thanks to it's unique rhizomial adaptations. It has a million and one uses. And rabbits love it.
     I think most people should understand before they plant bamboo that it is a giant grass. And think of how hard it is to get rid of grass in Florida once it is established! So extreme care should be taken before a planting of bamboo is placed anywhere. It should probably not be planted over sewer lines, electrical lines, water pipes, etc.
     My large bamboo is in a pot, while my dwarf bamboo hides underneath a palmetto bush. Hopefully that will be good enough to keep my yard safe.
     This pile of bamboo was laying by the curb at a neighbor's house. Silly people.

Covert Urban Homesteading, Part 2: Animals

   Without animals, your urban homestead is really just a super-nice garden. To really maximize your land use, you will want to get some small herbivores to convert your kitchen waste and yard refuse into instant fertilizer and protein. It should be noted that since you have a homestead here, and not an urban farm, you should be trying to provide as much of your animal feed as possible yourself. Buying feed is not what homesteaders do, it's what urbanites do, right?
     Every one of these animals will need their human caregivers to protect them from human and animal threats in addition to providing quality feed and water, and a clean living environment. Urban homesteaders here in Florida will have numerous pests such as weasels, hawks, cranes, cats, dogs, snakes, raccoons, teenagers, homeless, and the odd code enforcement official to contend with.

     Rabbits are by far my favorite outside animal. They can live on a completely home-grown diet of grasses and weeds, or planted vegetation. Larger operations will probably appreciate he convenience of pellet, which is not prohibitively expensive. The meat and manure are high quality, and extra stock can be sold as pets.

     Chickens are hilarious little birds. I've read that a combination of cat food and day-old bread, supplemented with egg shells, can be enough food for them, though I've never tried it.

     Quail need an extremely high protein diet as naturally they would eat nothing but insects. I've heard that they thrive in areas high in cockroaches, so...

     Guinea Pigs, also called cuys, are good eats in parts of South America. Think of them as slightly smaller rabbits.

     Mice/Hamsters. I'm considering raising them just for their cat and dog food value, since they will eat rabbit pellet and kitchen scraps and be fine with that. Maybe ground hamster could become the next big chicken or fish feed additive?

     Pigeons, especially homing pigeons, are popular outdoor pets in West Florida. I've heard that they can free-range and return home very well. They eat similar feed as chickens.

     Fish can be kept in aquariums as pets, raised for meat value, or raised for their plant fertilization value (think Aquaponics). Crawdads, catfish, and tilapia are all raised successfully here in Florida. Perhaps one of the most covert urban animal operations could involve a decorative "koi" pond filled with catfish or tilapia (Guess what I'm building in my back yard!).

     Bees live very well here in Florida, the main consideration being the location and disguise of your hive(s). After all, no one can complain you have bees if they can't see the hives. Most urban and suburban areas of Florida have decorative flowering plants and trees, that produce year-round blooms.

Happy Blogiversary, Chrissy

     Scrub Land has been up for one year now, it has earned over 22,000 hits. That's a lot of clicks.

Surprising Azolla Harvest

     The azolla in the newly built pond is finally growing up to the expectations claimed by numerous sources on the internet. Though the little pond is perhaps about 10 square feet of surface area, and even with the floating  planters, I was able to harvest a full pot of azolla last week and another pot of azolla today.
     I have been steaming to destroy bacteria (and  tadpoles) on the plants before draining and freezing into ice cube trays for ease of feeding to the rabbits. But it just brings up the good point, that if a person was starving, here is an extremely prolific food source for a survival garden.
     The only way to find the betta fish is by harvesting the azolla. It might not be a good idea to add this particular floating plant to decorative koi ponds. Now that my pond is up and running, I find myself wondering why not grow edible snails? They eat algae and won't disturb the floating planters, azolla, or fish.

Azolla, Azolla spp.

 Uses: Edible, Fodder, Fertilizer. Native to: The Cretaceous Period, worldwide.
     This floating water plant is actually a tiny, prehistoric fern with amazing properties. It fixes atmospheric nitrogen due to its symbiotic relationship with cyanobacteria, like an aquatic version of our more common legumes. Due to its nitrogen-fixation, it is also an extremely protein-rich plant, making it an excellent choice for home-grown fodder. In fact, there are very few land-based livestock animals that will not eat azolla, if any. Chickens, rabbits, goats, ducks, and cows are reported to gorge on this aquatic plant.
     Historically it has been used as a wetland green manure crop in the warmer parts of Asia. In the spring when taro or rice is planted in the boglands, the azolla would be innoculated to the water's surface. There the little ferns would fix nitrogen and proliferate, crowding out any competing algae or weeds via shading. Since the rice and taro have most of their foliage above water-level, it does not hinder their growth. The azolla will thrive, then self-mulch, then die down when the cooler weather comes. The farmers harvest some and shelter it for next year's use. The green manure properties of azolla make it possibly the six most valuable ferns on the planet.

A close-up of the roots which hang into the water.

     It's culture is simple - grow it in clean still or gentle water. Wind and water turbulence can fragment and destroy azolla, so sometimes floating beds are used. Like duckweed, under the right conditions it can become weedy if it escapes into waterways, so care should be taken to prevent escape. Since it provides it's own nitrogen, phosphorous can be a limiting factor to optimal growth. "The symptoms of phosphorous deficiency are red-coloured
fronds (due the presence of the pigment anthocyanin), decreased growth and curled
roots." A quick search of the webs reveals a superior organic source of high quality phosphorous can be made by burning animal bones at high temperatures to ashes. Never has a rocket mass heater in florida sounded more appealing!
     Azolla species can be used as a very nutritious survival food for humans, but it will need to be cooked to destroy any pathogens that might be living in the watery growing media. For animals, this compilated table shows it to have 16.5% crude protein and a bevy of other useful vitamins, like leucine and alanine. This Australian study lists many of the benefits of using azolla as a large-scale fodder source, but points out a simple drawback to commercial production - that contamination of the plantings by tiny freshwater shrimp can occur. This accidental animal protein renders the azolla illegal to sell as a feed source for ruminants in Australia, as they have strict legislation prohibiting animal proteins for ruminant consumption there. They also recommend the azolla be fed fresh or refrigerated, but within a week of harvest.
     A very nice synopsis of azolla research here.

Some free aquatic snail contamination.

I don't speak this language, but the video is very informative even muted.

The (Draft) Safe Plant List for Florida Rabbits

     There is a large conversation taking up bits of internet as more people worldwide work on safe, natural diets to feed rabbits. There is so much information out there, but most is for climates that have plants that do not grow well here in Central Florida.

     The nutritional makeup up a rabbit's complete diet is a large subject best explored here (Rabbit Nutrition: The Numbers). This is meant to be just a list of safe plants, along with a list of common but unsafe plants. Starred items I have personally fed my rabbits with no ill effects.

Grassy Types 

     Banana leaves*

     Rye*

     Bamboo*

     Yellow Nutsedge*

     Bahia*

     Plantain*

     Sunflower

     Sorghum*

     Pampas Grass*

     Fountain Grass

     Kenaf
Papyrus*

Legume Types

     Cowpea leaves*

     Peanut leaves and shells*

     Black Turtle bean leaves*

     Green runner bean leaves*

     Desmodium spp. leaves*

Herb Types

     Spanish Needle (Bidens alba, Bidens pilosa)*

     Soap Ginger*

     Cardamom Ginger

     Purslane*

     Sweet potato leaves*

     All Rosaceae family, including blackberry*, raspberry, pears*, and roses

     Sycamore*

     Maple*

     Hibiscus*

     Mulberry

     Citrus leaves*

     Persimmon leaves*

     Canna leaves*

     Squash spp.*

     Carrot leaves*

     Cilantro*

     Rosemary

     Basil

     Parsley*

     Lemongrass

     Oregano

     Sage

     Prickly Pear (spines removed)

     Pusley, Brazilian* and Floridian*

     Violet Woodsorrel*
Palmetto*
Spanish Dagger*
Cabbage*
Spiderwort*
Loquat*

Unsafe but common plants

     Crinum

     Century plant

     All Prunus species including Cherry Laurel (fruit may be safe, pits are not)

     Chinaberry Tree

     4 O'Clocks

     Taro, Dasheen, Elephant Ear

     Caladium

     Amaryllis

     Gladiolus

     White Potato Greens

     Oleander

     Tomato plants

     Crape Myrtle

     Lantana

     Privet

     Frangipani

     Rhoeo spathacea Steam (syn. R. discolor Hance)

     Oyster plant

     Moses-in-a-Boat (Purple Heart)

     Rain lily
Asthma Weed, Spurge

Unknown Toxicity Status

     Heliconia

     Ixora
Oak trees and acorns

     Hydrangea

     Ferns

     Bromeliads

     Cabbage Palm

     Crepe Myrtle

     Fig

     Pine needles

     Stargazer or Daylily

     Kiwi

     Muscadine grape

     Orange Honeysuckle

     Mexican Creeper

     Passionflower

     Magnolia

     Allamanda

     Confederate Jasmine

     Wisteria

     Dog Fennel

     Liriope

     Peace Lily

     Periwinkle

     Mexican Petunia

     Air Potato, Diascorea spp.

     Mimosa

     Acacia spp.

     Begonia spp.

     Cypress spp.

     Pecan leaves

     Prickly sida, Sida spinosa
Monkey Ear Tree leaves

     Here is a quick list of some rabbit-safe forages from Hawaii. It may give some ideas to those who live in South Florida.

Kiawe (mesquite) 

Mulberry 

Plantain (the small green lawn weed type as well as the banana types of plantain)

Sweet potato vines

Sunflower - seeds, leaves and stems 

Grape vines and leaves 

Rosemary (it is said rosemary will make their wool lustrous, however they won't always eat it.) 

Basil 

Lemon balm 

Daikon 

Banana - leaves, skins, fruit and trunk

Corn - husks, leaves and stems - not too much of the grain, though.

Roses - leaves, flowers and stems 

Beet greens  - not too much of the root, but you are supposed to eat that yourself.

Pigeon Pea - leaves and pods

Russian olive - although they may not like the taste

Ti leaves

Guinea grass - although they prefer the young leaves to the old stickery ones.

Dandelions

Carrots, especially the green tops

Nasturiums

Parsley

Alfalfa

Clover

   
Rabbits turn weeds into fertilizer, just think of the possibilities...

Chinese Tallow Tree, Triadica sebifera

Uses : Medicinal, Xeriscaping. Native to : Asia.

     The Chinese Tallow tree was introduced to the United States during the 1700's, and since then it has made itself at home throughout the southeast coastal states. It is now considered an invasive species by the state of Florida and is illegal to propagate and transport. In some areas the trees are notoriously difficult to remove, being known to successfully re-sprout from stumps and forgotten seeds. It grows very well on lands that are unsuitable for row agriculture, like, oh, most of Florida. It has naturalized itself in some areas, displacing native plants and animal habitats.
     It was originally introduced for commercial production of natural vegetable oil from the white seed coats, but industry never really took off. Perhaps it is too difficult to remove the seed coats from the fruit. An easy to grow natural vegetable oil would be a great crop for the South if it were viable. Popcorn trees are largely unaffected by pests. It attracts bees and butterflies. Birds and squirrels eat the fruits, reluctantly, if there isn't anything tastier to be found.
     I think the seeds would have a good use in starting campfires as a kindling, if you are a fan of cooking or relaxing with a campfire. Being naturally high in oil, they should work quite well for that purpose. It also will prevent the tree from reseeding all over your yard.
     The leaves change a range of beautiful oranges and reds in the fall, which is one  of the reasons it formerly was planted nationwide as an ornamental. This quality and it's fast-growing nature would make it an excellent specimen for a bonsai practitioner, being mindful that it is illegal to propagate. Then again in Florida gardening is only illegal when it bothers someone else... so a well-maintained bonsai (with prompt fruit removal) from is unlikely to cause trees sprouting in the neighborhood.
     The milky white sap of the tree is toxic, like all other plants with milky saps. Please be careful when handling parts of Popcorn tree, and avoid sap to skin or eyes contamination.
     The seedling problem is largely overstated here in West Florida where we have very distinct dry and wet seasons. There are maybe 10 to 30 Tallow trees here in this town, and they all appear to be about the same age, which leads to the idea that perhaps they all came from one nursery about 25 years ago. There are no seedling trees here to be found, possibly a side effect of frequent urban mowing.