Save Money by Hand-Washing All Your Laundry

     One of the ways I have been experimenting with getting things done is to wash all of my laundry by hand. Supposedly clothes will last forever that way,  and I find it especially helpful for washing those delicate synthetic clothes like my work uniforms. 

     Now, I'm not saying that I wash all of the family's clothing by hand. For one, it would take me quite a while to do that. Each load takes at least 10 minutes, and the overly large laundry basket full of clothes would take about 2 hours to wash. Really that's not longer than the machine takes to wash that amount of clothing. For two, spinning the laundry agitator takes quite a bit of upper arm strength, as I don't have a really good counter to use the washer with so the suction cups are usually not deployed. One arms spins the agitator, one arm stabilizes the washer. 

     I think it would be pretty easy to use outside sitting on the ground, or perhaps on a picnic or folding table. It has a small drain pipe which could easily hook into a larger and more permanent drain pipe, to take the laundry water away from the table area. Right now I have it next to the sink for easy drainage, and when I'm finished using the washer I drain the soapy water into the sink.

      What kind of soap works the best? After doing a little bit of experimenting, I have decided that standard clothes washing detergent isn't awesome. It tends to be hard to rinse clean and also it really dries out my skin if I manually squeeze the extra water out of the clothes. What I really like to use is Meyers hand soap, which has a nice smell and rinses well. I previously used to make my own laundry detergent, and I may start doing that again in the future. Homemade laundry detergent, recipe featured here, has washing soda and borax as main ingredients so will require significant rinsing. I recently bought some bar soap to use on the clothes, if using fels naphtha or something similar you would grate a half teaspoon of flakes for each small load.

     One obstacle I have yet to overcome is wringing, right now I do this by hand.

     Whether washing cothes by hand or by wasing machine, bra hooks still catch on everything.

The Wonderwash, the Best Washing Machine for sale at Amazon

The Ducks Enclosure Part 1

      Spent a great deal of time cleaning up the backyard. A lot of things have going on, the least of which being that the neighbors cut down one of my trees and jacked up my privacy hedge. So I ended up cleaning the weeds out of the back yard and removing most things that are inedible. 

     Anecdotally have been learning a lot about the other small animals that people enjoy having around, and have decided that ducks might be a great place to start. After the rabbits of course. I had wanted rats but not a whole lot of support or at least polite smiling from my friends and family. But learned that ducks can eat a lot of things that chickens can't, like bugs, caterpillars, water hyacinths and cat food. Supposedly they are very much omnivorous and can clean up leftovers like dogs can. Not really sure about all of that but have confirmed that even baby ducks like water hyacinth.

     I can't say that any one research point has given me good information about ducks. I listened to a bunch of podcasts and videos made by people who are doing their best to raise ducks given what little is out there. It's known that they eat fish plants and bugs. It's known that ducklings grow very quickly and if they are niacin deficient then they develop angel wing. Not a whole lot else is out there.

      Speaking of duck diet, I now am wondering how feasible it would be to breed cockroaches or palmetto bugs to feed them to ducks. Those things will eat anything .

     This is the cleared area in my backyard, some elephant grass as a mulch, and two tubs for the ducks to swim in. 

Crockpot Hot Process Coconut Oil and Coconut Milk Soap

     Having had an epiphany regarding modern life, I have decided to start making my own soap and wine again. Also I decided not to buy anymore soap or wine, might even start making my own lotions and lip balm. Might even start making my own laundry detergent again, even though you aren't supposed to use good detergent in this high faluten washer. Since its low sudsing it will probably be alright.

     This revelation isn't really out of the blue yonder. I have that forest property that I'm saving money to put a well on, plus I'm pregnant. Yay me! It was not exactly unexpected but also not exactly planned. So it's good.

     Tonight I had off from work, so I decided to go out for a walk and then come home to make some soap. I thought it would be nice to have in hand for the baby. It also would make super nice Christmas gifts for my family and the bosses, of which I have many at work.

     The hardest part of making soap is gathering the ingredients and preparation, the actual process is easy and not too time consuming. There are three main ingredients:
     - Lye: sometimes available at the hardware wtore, always available online
     - Oil or animal fat: Any vegetable oil will work
     - Water or milk: Goat and coconut are at the grocery store in the canned milk section.

     You will also need an accurate scale, a crockpot, a shoebox and wax paper, glass measuring cups/bowls, an immersion blender or my choice - a drill with a paint mixer.

     My recipe: Coconut Milk and Coconut Oil Soap
935 grams coconut oil
350 milliliters coconut milk
163 grams sodium hydroxide

     The hardest part of putting everything together is estimating how much soap to make to fill your container. Its not like shoeboxes have volunetric measurements stamped on the bottom. Since I've vowed to start making my own soap a lot more, I may just invest in one of those cool looking silicon molds from that one online retailer. It should have an accurate volumetric measurement on it.

     It smells like sweet milk as it's cooking. I also have an additive to put in it at the end, a tiny bottle of essential oil that I got at the dollar store, coconut and lime scent. If it works out well I may have to go back and buy more for future batches. Can't beat the price if it's effective. I have been wary in the past of additives because they can change the color, not carry any smell, and jack the cost up.

     Let me mention superfatting - I only superfatted this a mere 5%. For laundry detergent, you would not want any superfatting, but for hand soap and bady wash, a little extra oil makes it less drying. And man is my skin dry!

     It does smell really good. I decided it was done when it tried to escape the crockpot, and I ended up patting down the top surface to make it look pretty. It sure is brown. But its homemade, handmade, from safe ingredients.

Laundry Detergent Update

     Having made more laundry detergent from this recipe, using home made soap as the main ingredient is beyond compare. Just because people online say it's a good use of leftover bar soap, doesn't mean much until you actually try it, and I have. Home made soap is much better for laundry detergent, I would even put it up over fels-naptha. though fels has a better smell. Also, this last batch,I used more soap and borax than the recipe calls for (about 10% more) and feel it is well worth the additional cost. This batch was made with castille soap.

Fats Villainized

     Fat, whether eaten or trimmed, frequently gets blamed for making Americans a country of large waist proportions.

     One potential cause of fat villainy is displaced anger against sugar. A study's highlights here show that sugar is just as damaging if not moreso than dietary fat intake, and that the brain gets pleasure from consuming sugar just as much as fat.

     Trimmed fat has many uses, not excluding soap making. A really interesting chemistry read of how fats become saponified can be found here. Soap made from animal and vegetable fats contains glycerine, a natural moisturizer, where commercial soaps lack this valuable by-product. The glycerine is removed via a chemical process, and sold to be used for , but since glycerol is a by-product of manufacturing biodiesel, it isn't worth as much as it used to be. The glycerin-devoid soap is milled, or ground down, and rebatched into what we call bar soap.


     There is quite a bit of research that shows that people can't survive without dietary fats. Most people are familiar with the concept of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids being good for us. Other fats are necessary as well, as this post I wrote a while back demonstrates. Indeed, too much protein with too little fat has been known to cause a dietary phenomenon called Rabbit Starvation, sometimes known as protein poisoning. It happens in the absence of carbohydrates and fat, as the name implies. The liver can't effectively metabolize the high amounts of protein, and the kidneys are inefficient when blood urea levels are that high. Death soon results. The prevention? Eat a wide variety of foods, including natural carbohydrates and fats.

     In summation, blaming carbon molecules for poor life choices is like blaming guns because psychopaths use them.

Alternative Method for Making Lye, Part 4

     After working hard experimenting with the recipe in Part 3, I have discovered that recipe lacks water, or heat, or some vital process that makes it possible for completion. After some discovery on the internet, I was able to find a recipe for the reaction that seems to work out much better. The recipe comes from an interesting website that promotes the use of knowledge and technology to improve the lives of people worldwide, a noble challenge. They also have some great information about small and large livestock and crafts like candle and soap making.

      This is the mixture of hydrated lime and washing soda, after it has been boiled and is cooked and cooling. This pan is stainless steel, found at a rummage sale for $4, because I wasn't willing to risk one of my other pans to the process. Below is the first pan I tried making lye in, and it is hard to see from the picture, but the teflon is actually bubbled up off of the metal. Who would have thought? Teflon and calfalon are not of my favorite substances on the planet, after all the bad press they've received among the psittacine-phile communities for the deaths of hundreds of indoor pet birds. Apparently when teflon and its derivatives are heated above 200 degrees F, (which is every time you use it, right?) then toxic gases can be released which have been found to harm pet birds and newborns. That being said, don't make lye in a small enclosed room. Duh.
     I have still have to test the pH of the lye water that is produced from this process.

Alternative Method for Making Lye, Part 3

Barefootboy's Recipe and Method for making lye from washing soda and hydrated lime, originally found here. Edited by Tentance.

• Put 4 ounces of distilled water into two, 2-cup measuring cups (or containers).
• Slowly add 1/2 oz of the Sodium Carbonate to the water in the first cup and stir. It will clunk up, so you'll need to stir gently but well with each 1/2 oz you add. NOTE There will be some very minor but noticeable heat given off. This is normal. 
• Add 1/2 oz to the water until you reach 2 ounces. Stir until the mix is clear. There may be a tiny amount that will not mix. This is NOT a problem.
• Slowly add 1/2 oz of lime to the water of the second cup, stirring with each 1/2 added to mix as much as possible. Continue until you reach 2 oz. The mix will look like a grey white milk shake and there will be some gritty residue especially if you use garden lime. This also is not a problem.
• Carefully pour the first cup with the 4 oz of clear liquid into the first large container, leaving any non liquid behind.
• Now pour the second cup carefully into the first large container.
• The mix will now become an even thicker gray white mix. Allow to separate into a clear liquid and a white/grey solid. This can take 2 hours or more. General rule, if you can let it sit for 24 hrs, do so.
• Set up your funnel with filter on top of you second container.
• When the mix has settled, carefully pour off the clear liquid into the funnel.
• The first 3 to 3 1/2 ounces should filter off rather easily, the last 1/2 ounce will take a bit longer. You can either let the mix sit and separate over time, or put the white semi-solid in the filter and let sit until as much of the liquid as possible filters out. What will be left on the filter paper will be Calcium Carbonate (raw chalk) with lye residue. Dispose of this very carefully.

You should now have 4 oz more or less of at least 50% lye solution. Every batch has had the strength verified by the pH test and has turned out 13 on the scale.
As listed above 2 oz of Soda ash (Sodium Carbonate) to 4 oz of water and 2 oz of hydrated lime to 4 oz of water = 4 oz more or less of 50% lye solution.

 
Editor's Note: To calculate the amount of homemade lye to use in your soaps with your choice of oils, head over to the SoapCalc website. In field 1, choose NaOH (sodium hydroxide). In field 3, choose Lye Concentration 50%. Adjust your superfat and oil percentages and calculate as usual.
When in doubt, do a small test batch. You can always add more water and "cook" the soap for a longer amount of time in the crock pot or on your survival fire until you obtain the desired consistency. This homemade sodium hydroxide might lend itself more to the hot process method until you become more familiar with it.

Previous method discussion

Alternative Method for Making Lye, Part 2

This is an explanation of how to make common lye, sodium hydroxide, from readily available ingredients.
Explained very well by Barefootboy, from the Homesteading Today forum. Edited by Tentance.

Alternative Method for Making Lye 

     Due to the restrictions being placed on lye sold in stores because of the criminal use of it, I'd like to bring up an alternative method of making lye that does not require wood ashes.
     Get hydrated lime at a hardware store (as builder's lime) or garden supply store, it is used in gardening and I found it under the Hoffman brand. The next ingredient is a little trickier, you need to find some basic washing soap powder. It should be straight Sodium Carbonate with NO additives or perfumes. Arm and Hammer (Washing Soda) does sell it in the old blue box some of us remember for childhood, but most big box stores don't carry it. Try discount or dollar stores. I found 100% Sodium Carbonate being sold as a pool chemical inexpensively, called "Pool Time pH UP". Or, you could try heating regular baking soda (NOT baking powder) then use it as the soda ash. I'm not sure how long to heat it, as I have not tried that method, but chemically it's correct.
     If you do get these two, simply make an equal mix of each in filtered or distilled water and carefully combine. I suggest starting out with a cup of each to get used to the steps. This will create a white solid (Calcium Carbonate = chalk) and a liquid (Sodium Hydroxide = Lye). Using a funnel and a coffee filter, filter out the white solid.
     I mixed 1 tsp of the Sodium Carbonate with 3 oz of distilled water, and 1 tsp of the lime with 3 oz of distilled water. I poured them together and waited 5 minutes for the solid and liquid (lye) to separate, then filtered the mix through a coffee filter in a funnel. The result shows all signs of being Lye.
     This process does NOT require heating at any stage of it. It is simply dissolving two powders in enough water so they can mix and separate, and then filtering off the liquid. If you use 1 ( oz, cup etc) of each chemical (lime and carbonate) and 1 (oz, cup, etc) of water in theory you'll end up with 1 (oz, cup) of the solid and 2 (oz, cups) of the liquid which will be 50% strength lye (which may need to be further diluted with water to be used with a lye calculator).
     BUT as they said in MASH "this is meatball surgery" this is meatball chemistry, so you will not get the exactness you'd get under controlled lab or industrial conditions.
     On the other hand, it will work, and has signs of being economical (yield/cost) and IS an alternative to getting hassled whenever you want to make a batch of soap.
     I found that I had to use 2 cups of water to each cup of lime/carbonate (4 cups of water). I am filtering the mix now, and it's looking like I'll recover 2 cups of lye solution, so the 50% strength still looks viable. At the max I'll get 2.5 cups of lye solution, so that's still somewhere between 35 to 40%.

The fancy term for this is a "double displacement reaction" [Editor's Note: Double displacement reaction - aqueous metathesis (precipitation)]. The Sodium Carbonate swaps with the Calcium Hydroxide (slaked lime) to create Sodium Hydroxide (lye/liquid) and Calcium Carbonate (chalk/powder).

     Read more for a better recipe and breakdown of the method. Check out this post for confirmation of the validity of this method from a chemistry and soaping text.

     From PlicketyCat:

     You can grind limestone or seashells (calcium carbonate) and then heat it in a kiln/bonfire (1200F) until it calcinates and forms quicklime (calcium oxide), then soak the quicklime in water to create slaked lime (calcium hydroxide).
     You can also burn kelp/seaweed to create soda ash (sodium carbonate) instead of heating baking soda. Soak your soda ash with water and filter to leach out the carbonates, and mix that solution with our calcium hydroxide water solution to form Sodium Hydroxide (and dry calcium carbonate again).
     Or burn wood to create potash (potassium carbonate) and a small amount of soda ash (sodium carbonate). Soak the ashes with water and filter to leach out the carbonates, and mix that solution with your calcium hydroxide water solution to form Potassium Hydroxide (and dry calcium carbonate again).

Alternative Method for Making Lye, Part 1

     This is an excerpt from a chemistry text, written in 1856, called "A Treatise on Chemistry Applied to the Manufacture of Soap and Candles: Being a Thorough Exposition, in All Their Minutiae, of the Principles and Practice of the Trade, Based Upon the Most Recent Discoveries in Science and Art."
     I have taken enough college chemistry classes to realize that I never could seem to find the useful parts of the chemistry books. Perhaps because they didn't come with those chapters. But here is a small bit of a nifty chemistry which can be done at home to work-around the lack of available lye sources for home soaping.
     I love antique cookbooks and now, chemistry books. They provide a new perspective that is absent in our modern age.
     Read more for a more practical method breakdown. Do home chemistry at your own risk. Never throw salt in your eyes.
     What is soda ash? What is hydrated lime?

What is hydrated lime, really?

     Hydrated lime is a builder's concrete additive and a soil amendment. The high calcium, low magnesium (non-dolomitic) type can also be used for making a home-made version of sodium hydroxide by following the methods outlined here.
     The pure form of the chemical is known as calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)₂) or slaked lime. It's pH is a high 12.4. Aglime and hydrated lime are frequently confused, but are chemically completely different. Aglime is crushed limestone (calcium carbonate).

     As a soil amendment, it is a cheap way to raise the pH of large amounts of overly acidic soil. In aquaponics and hydroponics, it can be used to safely raise adjust pH and add calcium to the closed systems, though some people would just add seashells to their system. There are several grades of hydrated lime for the garden, a high calcium grade, a medium calcium grade, and a dolomitic grade. These three are all varying degrees of magnesium added, with the high calcium having the least, and the dolomitic having the most.

    For the soap lye synthesis plan, I have found the highest calcium grade hydrated lime for the best price at the Sears website, of all places. Five pounds of 95% calcium for $13.63, free shipping. That's even cheaper than Amazon!

What is Soda Ash, really?

     Soda ash has been very popular in the do-it-yourself community. It is a household chemical that is considered to be very safe, and is chemically closely related to its cousin baking soda, though harder to find and slightly more expensive. It is used in laundry detergents, soaping, making glass, water softening, pool care, and for adding dye to clothing.
     Sodium carbonate (Na₂CO₃₎ is commercially made from common salt and limestone. It's pH is a high 11.6, compared to the more mild sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) of 8.4. The high pH and cheap production is what makes it valuable to water softening and pool care. It's unique chemical properties make it useful for laundry - "It competes with the magnesium and calcium ions in hard water and prevents them from bonding with the detergent being used" (Wikipedia). I have a nice recipe for the home-made laundry detergent here for your perusal.
     When used for home dye projects, it can help to mordant fiber-reactive dyes to vegetable fabrics. That
translates to binds certain synthetic dyes to fabric like cotton, hemp, or bamboo. It's usually used as a pre-mordant.
     When used in baking, it can replace baking powder/baking soda in order to leaven breads.
     When used to make glass, it is added to the mixture of salts and silica before the melt process is started. It hardens and makes the glass less permeable to water.
     For home swimming pools, it can be added to increase the water's pH which lessens the corrosive effects of chlorine. Indeed, finding sodium carbonate in the pool supply section of the local multi-mart can be the most cost effective way to purchase washing soda, with five pounds selling for under $15. 
     Historically, soda ash was made from leeching the ashes of certain seaweeds in a similar manner to potassium hydroxide production from wood ashes (read our post about it here). Before you ask, the common historically used plants were glassworts, saltworts, barilla, and seaweeds of the Fucus family (Wikipedia). Very little research has been done to investigate plant sources in the New World (maybe a survival project for another day?). It is mostly mined nowadays, but can be lab created in a similar manner as sodium hydroxide. 

Making Soap from Wood Ash (Potash) and Oils, Part 3

      Most websites say that the lye solution is the correct strength when a small potato or raw egg floats while showing an amount above the surface tension of the water about the size of a quarter. Most sources are unclear about the proper pH of lye water, but it is expected to be somewhere between 13 and 14 (the most alkalotic substances known to man) to be strong enough to saponify oils.
     It is difficult to guesstimate an approximate recipe to use the lye water. One person states, "If your lye water will float an egg with only a quarter size showing, boil down 1 gallon of lye water to 3/8 cup. Use 2 cup fats with 3/4 c. concentrated lye water…proceed slowly adding small amounts lye to fats whipping briskly each time."
     Another recipe concerning the proportion to ash water to fats can be found here. The author states, "Thirty-five liters of ashes is about the right amount for 2 kilograms of fat (a bushel of ashes for 4 pounds of fat). This proportion is cited in soap-making recipes of the colonial period in the United States, but many of the recipes of that era differ on the proportion of ashes to fat. Put 115 ml (1/2 cup) of lye in the kettle for every 230 ml (1 cup) of fats or oils."
     Another soap making website says the ratio of home-made lye water to fats should be "115 ml (1/2 cup) of lye in the kettle for every 230 ml (1 cup) of fats or oils." It goes on to say the mixture should be boiled until it becomes thick, foamy, and rubbery.
     This site has a surprisingly well-written article about how to neutralize an alkalotic pH in liquid soaps. In short, boric acid or borax is added to the soap solution, then allowed to precipitate, leaving the remaining soap more neutral and clear. Of course, proper pH testing is necessary to prevent skin reaction (we can handle more acid than alkali). Adding more fat will also bind the alkali in the lye.

Making Soap from Wood Ash (Potash) and Oils, Part 2

     On the other hand, Mother Earth News has printed an article from 1972 that says this about making wood ash lye at home:

To make lye in the kitchen, boil the ashes from a hardwood fire (soft woods are too resinous to mix with fat) in a little soft water, rain water is best, for about half an hour. Allow the ashes to settle to the bottom of the pan and then skim the liquid lye off the top. You can do this daily and when you've got enough of the weak solution, start the soap making process by boiling the liquid down until it'll float an egg. Now put that meat fat, left-over cooking lard and vegetable oil into a kettle not over half full, and heat the whole mess until all the liquid has been rendered out of the solid scraps. While it's still hot, add this clean grease to the bubbling lye and continue to boil the mixture, stirring all the while, until it reaches the consistency of thick cornmeal mush. 

     The article goes on to say that added salt makes the soap set into bars more easily, and that non-hardwood ashes are too resinous to produce soap. That last statement could use a good skeptical questioning, since pine tar soap is renowned for its anti-inflammatory properties against ailments such as psoriasis.

Making Soap from Wood Ash (Potash) and Oils, Part 1

     It wasn't all that long ago that housewives and farmwives made a liquid soap at home using wood ashes and animal fats. The recipes and techniques have been somewhat lost through the years, but several websites have been collecting some information about the process. This website has a bit of background information on the subject, saying, "Historically, potash was derived from boiling down liquid lye (leached from hardwood ash) until it was reduced to a white solid composed primarily of Potassium Carbonate (K2CO3). Potassium Carbonate was used in soap making, glass production, and other manufacturing processes. It could be further refined in a kiln to remove impurities. The refined product was called pearl ash. Both potash and pearl ash were used as an early leavening agent in baked goods."

     One book, the Farmer's Magazine (1859), estimates that ten pounds of ash will make about one pound of salts of lye. The leeched ash water is boiled "to the consistency of tar".
     From Frontier Freedom Magazine and other sources, homemade lye from wood ashes produces potassium hydroxide, an alkalotic relative to the commercial sodium hydroxide that handmade soap is made with. Most online sources agree that rainwater or distilled water is the most desirable for making wood ash lye. The technique they recommend to produce lye, which also sounds to be one of the faster and safer techniques out there, requires you to fill a pillowcase with ashes and place over a five gallon bucket. Pour boiling filtered water into the pillowcase bucket, like you are making tea. Agitate for some time (1 1/2 hours?), then take the pillowcase of ashes out of the water and cook the extra moisture out of the ash water. The lye is strong enough when it can dissolve a chicken feather. The process may have to be repeated several times to get the correct strength (approximate pH?). Avoid scorching the lye (?). Liquid lye can be sun-dried/dehydrated into crystals (?).
     The recipe from Frontier Freedom Magazine calls for 18.2 ounces of homemade lye crystals, 2 1/2 pints of water, and 6 pounds of fat, which they say will make 9 pounds of soap. Their single bar recipe calls for 3 heaping tablespoons of homemade lye crystals, 1/2 cup soft water, and 1 cup melted beef tallow. "A combination of half tallow and half lard is usually suggested." This is somewhat frustrating because most of us use metric measurements for everything this exacting. The soap is made via hot process, and can be hardened into bars and molded or left as a liquid for washing clothing.

What is Potassium Hydroxide, really?

     Potassium hydroxide KOH, is commonly called caustic potash. It is famously used to saponify fats into liquid soap, which is then firmed up with the addition of common salt.
     "Historically KOH was made by adding potassium carbonate (potash) to a strong solution of calcium hydroxide (slaked lime), leading to a metathesis reaction which caused calcium carbonate to precipitate, leaving potassium hydroxide in solution" (Wikipedia). Also historically but not mentioned on Wikipedia, potassium hydroxide was leeched from wood ashes using rainwater and a barrel, a long and indeterminate process which I will explain further in another post. The addition of calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime), which came much later, potentially simplifies and streamlines the process even for the farm wives who historically made soap.
     Other than it's famously historical use in home soap making, potassium hydroxide has fallen out of fashion in the chemical world in deference to it's cheaper sister chemical, sodium hydroxide, now also used for soap making. Potassium-based soaps are known to be milder than sodium-based soaps, though properly formulated soaps of either kind are mild enough for children and pets.
     This excerpt is from a chemistry text on soap and candle making, written in 1856. The science discussed herein is still good, though does not make adequate use of one our great modern advances in alkalimetry, known as the pH scale. Potassium hydroxide can have a pH of 12 to 14, depending on its formulation and purity. A pH of 13 is considered the normal for it.

Unsweetened Kool Aid

     There have to be dozens of off label uses for Kool-Aid and other food additives, one of the most well known being a temporary hair color. I suspect it could easily be used to color handmade lye soap, particularly the hot process variety. I would rather have Kool-Aid in my soap than crayons or other non-food-grade additives, since what goes on your skin readily gets absorbed in.

     I'm going to have to make a test bar on the next small batch I create. In the meantime, Lowes has discontinued carrying the Roebics 100 percent sodium hydroxide crystals, so I would have to purchase future supplies online. I will check the Tractor Supply here in Polk County, but since the area is known for its high domestic consumption of some of the other off label uses for sodium hydroxide, there's some low expectations.

     After dyeing the kids hair, and your hair, and the cat's fur, why not try hand-dyeing some white yarn with Kool-Aid for the kids and the cat to enjoy? Or tie-dyed clothing using Kool-Aid and alum? That plain white shirt from the blood donation place could surely use a face-lift.

Crock Pot Hot Process Salt Soap Bar Recipe

     According to this site, historically lye was made from washing rainwater through wood ashes (potash). This is clearly a survival project for another day. The resulting soap was liquid, which was fine for home use, but when bar soap became more popular, salt was added to solidify the bars, making them more marketable than bottles of soap. Salt soap, now made with sodium instead of potassium, is in bar form and the salt is used as a gentle exfoliant, giving it the name Salt Spa Soap. It is known to be good for acne and dry skin, so I figured it might be a good holiday gift for the men in the family.

     It would be really interesting to solar distill ocean water at home and use the salt for soap making. The water would be probably safer than some tap waters, too.

     I used 'hot process' method of preparing this soap. Most soapers use cold process with salt, because the salt makes the soap 'seize'. This is only my second time using crock pot hot process, but I love it because the lye visibly saponifies and the soap cures almost instantly. Just before the soap was at the "mashed potato" stage, I dumped all the salt in at once and stirred furiously. The salt tried settling to the bottom. Once I had it all mixed in, I glopped it into the mold. It cooled enough to turn out and cut in about half an hour. This method might not have worked well for a larger batch, and I have a huge crock pot, so be aware.

     Before you start, remember what Mother always said; "Never throw salt in your eyes."

Here's the recipe.

Detergent-Free, Natural, Unscented Handmade Vegan Salt Lye Soap.
80% Coconut
10% Olive
10% Soybean
Water as a percent of oil weight 35%
Superfat 15%
Salt 80% of oil weight


For 880g of oils
Lye - 137g
Water - 334g
Coconut Oil - 704g
Olive Oil - 88g
Soybean Oil - 88g
Salt - 660g

Hibiscus and Lemongrass Soap

     This unscented soap was my first attempt at using the technique of soaping known as 'crockpot hot process', which I have decided is so easy it is the method that I want to use for all future batches. Not only does it help me actually visualize the ephemeral 'trace' which other soapers discuss, but the batch is ready for use shortly after slicing, usually the same day.

     The hibiscus and lemongrass came from perennials in the garden, and I have cooked them into a tea-like fluid after observing the advice of the lady soapers over at Homesteading Today. In short, they advised that fresh herbs tend to brown and look unsightly if put directly into the soap. The tea, however, lacks the pungent lemongrass scent. Both hibiscus and lemongrass are known to have healing properties, and at the very least, the tea has more vitamins in it than regular, filtered water.

     Here is the recipe:

Detergent free, Natural, Unscented Lemongrass and Hibiscus Handmade Castile-Mix Vegan Lye Soap.
Water 38%, Superfat 5%, for 1100g of oils.

Water/Tea - 418g
Lye - 151g
Olive Oil - 715g
Coconut Oil - 220g
Soybean Oil - 165g

     One chunk had a large glob of undissolved oil, which I was not pleased to find. Other than that, they came out very well, and smell like the castile base with a faint herbal scent.

     Here they are decorated and labeled for the ladies in the family for gifts for the holidays.