Showing posts with label Paleo Diet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paleo Diet. Show all posts

Beautyberry, Callicarpa americana

     Known for its edible small purple berries. I have eaten the berries raw, and they don't have much flavor. Popular for creating jams/jellies - sugar and pectin will have to be added.
    Usually you see the brightly colored magenta berries for months in the summer. I was finally able to get a picture of the flowers themselves.

Cannas, surprisingly beautiful

     Came home from my so-called job to find these beauties in my back yard. I have them growing in a standard nursery pot that is sitting in a larger clay pot that has no drainage holes. It usually is filled with a few inches of water. They say cannas like to have their feet wet, and that definitely seems to be the case around here.
     Cannas are edible, and I have eaten the leaves, which have a mild flavor but are chewy. Would be an excellent base for a salad but I wouldnt use them for lettuce wraps. I haven't yet tried the roots.
     This is a plant that can be found at many nurseries. I have even seen them for sale at Meijers in Michigan, what a sight for sore eyes. They are distinctive and come in several varieties, including variegated and purple-leaved.

Grocery Store Onions

     You can plant the bases of fresh green onions. Most will regrow their leaves and provide you with additional green onion to eat. This will be the first year I have been able to keep them alive into the hot part of the summer, because the onions can't dry out in the heat. Shade is helpful also.
     You should try it! It's rewarding to see the fast growing changes and growth. And it stores food outside in the ground, uneaten by bugs and rot. The onion's pungency repels other insects.

Buy this plant from me?

     This morning I snapped a quick picture of this dwarf pink canna. This is its first bloom of the season.
     As you may know, cannas love full sun and plenty of water. Its hard to overwater them! They can be placed in a pot into an existing or new pond. I was thinking $5 or plant trade would be a good price, as this is a 100% organic offering of an edible suitable for the front yard.
     Check out the Craigslist Posting for this plant.

Rabbits, Spring of 2019

     It has been a long time since I have bred my rabbits. They are like my little garden buddies. They turn leaves into compost for me, the ultra fast way. And they are always eager to see what soggy fruit or vegetable peel i have for them. So this week I put two of them together and they seemed to have a successful coupling. I should have kits in 4 weeks! And extra buns for sale in 2 months!
     Check out this blackgrass I have planted for them. Edible for rabbits. And beautiful as well.

Opuntia Placed Using the STUN method.

     I may have said before that I am a huge fan of Mark Sheppard's STUN method of gardening, which is short for Sheer Total Utter Neglect.  In short, you plant a whole lot of the thing you want to grow, as many different varieties as you wish, collect the seeds of the survivors, and continue to plant and collect seed of future generations so that you will be growing the best, most adapted plants for your space.
     So I pruned all of my Opuntia, which came out to a lot more than I had thought it would. Filling up an entire bucket! From my postage stamp yard I was impressed. These are not old and large plants, but tiny things I have found in the neighborhood and bought one at the botancal gardens. These are the native Opuntias, be cautious when handling!
     Then I took all the tunas to the new property, which I am going to have to give a name to. I had wanted to make a fortress of solitude out of the place complete with a moat of Cactus all around it, but as yet I dont have enough plant matter for that. So I placed them all in the ground in a protected area. Could always move them later on. I was delighted to find the sand was moist about an inch deep, perfect for these cacti! With any luck, I can STUN these into thousands more plants for my moat.






Opuntia, a revisiting

     I have been rethinking the case for planting spiny Opuntia at the new place. The spiny Prickly Pear still makes a delicious fruit, and it has the added benefit of keeping out people, deer, and anything else soft and fleshy.
There is a very nice overview here.
     I must have at least 20 starts in the front yard ready for transplant. Exciting!

How to Clone your Basil, Part 1 of 3

You may be wondering how to stay productive with your growies during the heat of summer. UofF IFAS recommends to do no planting or transplanting during the month of July, likely due to the high temperatures and extremely intermittent rainfall. In August, it would be acceptable to plant some seeds indoors for later transplanting outside, if you are into that sort of thing. Me, I would rather reproduce the growies that are successful asexually indoors during July, particularly growies like this delicious basil that I started from seed earlier this year.
This is a picture of the basil cuttings in my clone bucket, a miniature aeroponic system that bathes the stems in a constant mist. I had previously modified the sprayer head to produce finer misting particles, and once it was loaded with water and a pinch of rooting hormone it was ready to go. Also, the plants won't need light, so the clone bucket is tucked into my fairly dark kitchen where I can keep an eye on it.
Have you ever started cuttings in water, using this method or any other method?

Fats Villainized

     Fat, whether eaten or trimmed, frequently gets blamed for making Americans a country of large waist proportions.

     One potential cause of fat villainy is displaced anger against sugar. A study's highlights here show that sugar is just as damaging if not moreso than dietary fat intake, and that the brain gets pleasure from consuming sugar just as much as fat.

     Trimmed fat has many uses, not excluding soap making. A really interesting chemistry read of how fats become saponified can be found here. Soap made from animal and vegetable fats contains glycerine, a natural moisturizer, where commercial soaps lack this valuable by-product. The glycerine is removed via a chemical process, and sold to be used for , but since glycerol is a by-product of manufacturing biodiesel, it isn't worth as much as it used to be. The glycerin-devoid soap is milled, or ground down, and rebatched into what we call bar soap.


     There is quite a bit of research that shows that people can't survive without dietary fats. Most people are familiar with the concept of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids being good for us. Other fats are necessary as well, as this post I wrote a while back demonstrates. Indeed, too much protein with too little fat has been known to cause a dietary phenomenon called Rabbit Starvation, sometimes known as protein poisoning. It happens in the absence of carbohydrates and fat, as the name implies. The liver can't effectively metabolize the high amounts of protein, and the kidneys are inefficient when blood urea levels are that high. Death soon results. The prevention? Eat a wide variety of foods, including natural carbohydrates and fats.

     In summation, blaming carbon molecules for poor life choices is like blaming guns because psychopaths use them.

Another Great Reason to Grow Lemon Trees

     There are several reasons to grow citrus trees even if your production of fruit turns out disappointing, or if you live in an apartment and only have room for a small plant in dim light indoors.
     Vitamins found in the leaves can be higher than the vitamins found in the fruit. This includes vitamin C, potassium, and vitamin A precursor. Potassium and vitamin C are not stored well by the body, so have to be replenished periodically by the diet. There is some evidence that dehydrating the leaves concentrates the vitamins, as long as the dehydrating is performed without excessive heat. Can we say valuable post-apocalyptic trading commodity? Also a great reason to enjoy herbal tisanes and justify the cost of an inexpensive solar dehydrator for the backyard.
     Citrus greening could become a problem, but not if you are growing the plants specifically for the leaves. Greening is the newest, baddest threat to Florida's citrus industry, basically an uncontrollable bacteria that causes fruit to improperly ripen. However, leaves are unaffected, and the bacteria is not a human pathogen. The best time to harvest leaves is right before the lemon trees flower and fruit, as that is when they will have the maximum nutrition. Meyer lemons flower in December, usually, and fruit a few months later. The flowers are fragrant and nutritious too! Citrus trees are perennials, so care must be taken to sustainably harvest them.
     As much as IFAS and the news sensationalize the plights of the citrus industry, most citrus trees are largely resistant to pests. Perhaps it is because those statistics come from the monocultured orchard citrus industry. Perhaps it's because most are already grafted before you have the opportunity to purchase the trees. Perhaps it is because most people's backyard citrus are not planted so densely so as to encourage the growth of pests and the lack of beneficial insects and bacteria. Remember this previous article about how the state destroyed thousands of homeowner's citrus trees, then lost a lawsuit because it was scientifically unfounded? It just shows that they don't really know the answers either.
     The fruit has many culinary uses. It is used in canning to lower pH and prevent oxidation. It can be used to cook raw fish without heat, but dehydrates the proteins - changing the texture. Lemonade. Household cleaner. Fragrance. Color. Limitless possibilities.
     It may have some medicinal properties. Although not thoroughly researched here in the US, lemon is used in Ayurveda in India. According to this study, lemon is used to treat disorders of the throat and persistent catarrh (inflammation of the mucous membranes usually in the airway, causing an overproduction of phlegm and mucus). The low pH of lemon juice inhibits bacterial growth. Certainly vitamin C is absolutely necessary in our diet. Remember this post where I wrote about vitamin C and guinea pigs (as a survival protein source)? We all need good nutrition.
     The recommendations for lemon culture from IFAS state that lemons are more vigorous than most citrus species and that dense plantings encourage pests. They are recommended for the warmest, sunniest part of the landscape that does not flood. IFAS doesn't recommend propagation by seed, but rather grafting onto a rootstock specifically chosen to avoid certain soil pathogens.

Debunking the paleo diet: Christina Warinner at TEDxOU

     I have decided that every once in a while I will be sharing some videos of interesting, probably nerdy topics. Not all will be related to the food supply, but many will, since we all need to eat.
     This video espouses the common claims that it is even possible to approximate Paleolithic humankind's diet in our modern world. She points out many interesting facts, the most remarkable being the severe hybridization of our modern agricultural system. Our fruits and vegetables aren't what they once were. The end wraps up with a concise summary and plan for those who want to eat in a more paleolithic style.
     What is your opinion?

 

Survival Gardening in Florida, Part 2

     As far as growing carbohydrates, nothing really jumps out at me beyond sweet potatoes, cassava, sugarcane, the safe yams, and coontie, which are all very nutritious and pack a good deal of fiber as well. Also, kids like them. The leaves of all but coontie can be eaten or used as fodder. White potatoes are great too, if you are really good at growing them. Some grains that do well in Florida include amaranth and sorghum. Sorghum can be made into a tasty molasses if a person desired it. There are a ton of fruits that grow very well in Florida, the most well-loved being citrus, which can, with choosing proper varieties, be available for picking fresh about half the year. Canna, carrots, lilies, and cassava roots are all loaded with vitamins and nutrition. Sugarcane grows very well through most of the state. Bees love it here too.
     As far as growing fats, that's going to be a tough one. This might be a good time to mention micro-livestock like rabbits, guinea pigs, or chickens. Quail are great, but need an extremely high-protein feed as they naturally eat insects. Rabbits can live almost completely on grass and weeds. Chickens can live on almost completely grains and bugs. Fish can be raised in ponds or containers and fed things like azolla, duckweed, or garden worms.
     If I had to choose just three plants to grow to survive on, it would be cowpeas, cannas, and sweet potatoes. Cowpeas are a nitrogen-fixing legume that grow very well in poor soil and can be grown twice a year. The beans are high in protein and fiber, while the plant is high in protein for the rabbits. Cannas, aside from being beautiful and able to handle our hot, humid weather, can yield a starchy root and the leaves are high in vitamins for the rabbits. Sweet potatoes are a nutrient-dense starch, with very excellent tasting leaves which are high in protein. The leaves from all three plants can be eaten raw or cooked.
     Areas of the property which are not actively gardened can be, over time, landscaped with perennials that produce nutrition, fodder, or both. My favorite useful perennial is probably the wild rose bush. They don't have much of a smell, but make large, beautiful flowers that turn into rose hips - very nutritious. The leaves are good fodder and the thorns make the plant valuable for fencing. Thorned or thornless prickly pears are also a wonderful perennial, as the leaves are edible and the fruit is delicious. Plant those with an asiatic lily in between each bush and you will have created lush, flowery nutrition.
(Previous Page)

Actual Survival Gardening, Part 1


    Survival gardening is a phrase that has been thrown about and equated with permaculture, which it is not. Permaculture is lasting plantings of perennials which give abundantly year after year, while survival gardening is active gardening with a care to provide all of a person's nutritional needs.
     All nutritional needs. Fats, carbohydrates, proteins, fibers, trace minerals, and vitamins.
     There is a lot of debate as to how much land it would take to provide for all nutritional needs. Some people might say one acre per person, others more. Would all nutritional needs include meat and fish? what about the healthy fats that are in avocado and olives? So everyone is going to have their own opinion on land consumption, particularly in regards to climate and use, for example, like bio-intensive agriculture.
     I think as far as growing protein the first thing that jumps to mind is nut trees, and the first one that really jumps to mind is pecans. They grow really well in most parts of Florida, where other nuts fail. The rumors of a pecan blight exist, though I have not seen it for myself yet. Then there are bean plants, which are low-growing, sun-loving herbaceous protein factories. Peanuts, cowpeas, and green beans all do well here. Probably the best part about growing beans is that the plant stalk and leaves make great fodder for livestock once the beans are harvested. Sprouted grains are reputedly high in protein and vitamins.
(Continue Reading)

Perennial Vegetables for the South


     Ever since I found this list I have been returning to it whenever I might be going to a plant sale or nursery. There are many plant sales in the spring and fall, so here's a great list of plants that produce food and grow well here in Florida.
     Most, if not all, of these plants can also be fed to the rabbits, except for maybe taro.                                        





Perennial in all of the Hot and Humid zone:


Allium ampeloprasum perennial sweet leek
Allium cepa aggregatum shallot
Allium cepa aggregatum potato onion
Allium cepa proliferum walking onion
Allium fistulosum Welsh onion
Allium tuberosum garlic chives
Apios americana groundnut
Aralia cordata udo
Arundinaria gigantean canebrake bamboo
Asparagus officinalis asparagus
Asphodeline lutea yellow asphodel
Atriplex halimus saltbush
Bambusa spp. clumping bamboos
Brassica oleracea acephala tropical tree kale
Bunias orientalis Turkish rocket
Camassia scillioides wild hyacinth
Canna edulis achira
Cedrella sinensis fragrant spring tree
Cnidoscolus spp. bull nettles
Colocasia esculenta ‘Celery Stem’ taro
Colocasia esculenta taro, cocoyam, eddo, dasheen
Cynara cardunculus cardoon
Cynara scolymus ‘Purple Sicilian’ globe artichoke
Cyperus esculentus sativa chufa
Dioscorea bulbifera air potato
Dioscorea japonica jinenjo
Dioscorea opposita Chinese yam
Diplotaxis spp. sylvetta arugula
Helianthus tuberosa sunchoke
Hemerocallis daylily
Malva moschata musk mallow
Nasturtium officinale watercress
Nelumbo nucifera water lotus
Oenanthe javanica water celery
Opuntia spp. spineless nopale cactus
Petasites japonicus fuki
Phyllostachys spp. running bamboos
Phytolacca americana pokeweed
Polygonatum biflorum canaliculatum giant Solomon’s seal
Qiongzhuea tumidissinoda running bamboo
Rumex acetosa French sorrel
Rumex acetosa ‘Profusion’ sorrel
Rumex acetosella sheep sorrel
Rumex scutatus silver shield sorrel
Sagittaria latifolia arrowhead
Sagittaria sinensis Chinese arrowhead
Sasa kurilensis chishima-zasa bamboo
Scorzonera hispanica scorzonera
Semiarundinaria fastuosa temple bamboo
Stachys sieboldii Chinese artichoke
Taraxacum officinale dandelion
Tilia spp. linden


Perennial in colder parts of the Hot and Humid zone:


Allium tricoccum ramps
Chenopodium bonus-henricus good king Henry
Cicorium intybus chicory
Crambe maritima sea kale
Laportaea canadensis wood nettle
Levisticum officinale lovage
Matteuccia struthiopteris ostrich fern
Urtica dioica nettles

Perennial in warmer parts of the Hot and Humid zone, or perennial with protection. Most of these species can also be grown as annuals in the colder parts of this zone.


Abelmoschus manihot edible hibiscus (as dieback perennial)
Alternanthera sissoo sissoo spinach
Arracacia xanthorhiza arracacha
Basella alba Malabar spinach
Brassica oleracea wild cabbage
Brassica oleracea acephala ‘Western Front’ perennial kale
Brassica oleracea acephala ‘Tree Collards’, ‘Walking Stick Kale’
Brassica oleracea alboglabra gai lon
Brassica oleracea botrytis perennial broccoli, including ‘9 Star’
Brassica oleracea ramosa branching bush kale, including ‘Dorbentons’
Capsicum annum ‘Perennial Capsicum’ sweet pepper
Carica papaya papaya
Coccinia grandis ‘Sterile’ perennial cucumber (probably as dieback perennial in colder parts)
Cnodoscilus chayamansa chaya (as dieback perennial)
Cucurbita ficifolia Malabar gourd
Dendrocalamus spp. clumping bamboos (probably as dieback perennial even in warmest parts)
Dioscorea alata white yam
Dioscorea esculenta asiatic lesser yam
Dioscorea trifida cush cush yam
Dolichos lablab hyacinth bean
Eleocharis dulcis water chestnut
Gigantochloa spp. clumping bamboos (probably as dieback perennial in bad winters)
Gynura crepioides Okinawa spinach
Hibiscus acetosella cranberry hibiscus
Ipomoea aquatica water spinach
Ipomoea batatas sweet potato
Momordica charantia bitter gourd
Manihot esculenta cassava
Moringa spp. moringa (as dieback perennial)
Musa x paradisica ‘Rajapuri’ banana (warmest parts, with long season protection)
Nastus elatus clumping bamboo
Oxalis tuberosa oca
Phaseolus coccineus runner bean
Phaseolus lunatus Lima bean
Phaseolus polysantus cache bean
Physalis pruinosa ground cherry
Psophocarpus tetragonobolus ‘Day Length Neutral’ winged bean
Psophocarpus tetragonobolus winged bean
Saccharum edule pitpit
Sauropus androgynous katuk (as dieback perennial)
Sechium edule chayote
Smallianthus sonchifolia yacon
Solanum tuberosum & spp. potato
Tetragonia tetragonioides New Zealand spinach
Trichostigma octandrum basket vine (as dieback perennial)
Xanthosoma brasiliense belembe
Xanthosoma saggitifolium tannier, yautia, malanga (roots need long season)
Xanthosoma violaceum violet-stem taro (roots need long season)



Big List of Rabbit Recipes

Good Housekeeping's Poultry and Game Book, 1970

Stuffed Rabbit
1 rabbit
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
1 1/4 cups stock
2 cups breadcrumbs
1 large onion, chopped
2 large apples, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons parsley
1 teaspoon thyme
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoons butter
1 egg
Pepper to taste

     Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (180 degrees C). Wash and dry rabbit. Fry onions gently in 4 tablespoons butter. Add apple to onions and fry until soft. Mix onions, apple and 1 tablespoon butter with all other stuffing ingredients, and brown quickly. Place rabbit in a casserole dish, stuff, surround with excess stuffing, add well-seasoned stock, and cook in oven for 1 3/4 hours, or until tender.

Hasenpfeffer
6 - 8 slices bacon, finely chopped
2 rabbits
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup onion, finely chopped
3/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 bay leaf

     Heat the roaster or casserole over moderate heat and cook the bacon, stirring and turning it frequently, until crisp, about 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Set the pan with bacon fat aside for a few moments. Cut the rabbit into serving pieces. Cut away and discard the belly meat. Add the salt, pepper, and flour to a brown paper bag. Add a few rabbit pieces to the bag and shake to coat with flour mixture; repeat with remaining rabbit pieces. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Heat the reserved bacon fat in the pan over high heat until it sputters. Brown the rabbit pieces on all sides, in batches; this should take about 10 minutes. Transfer them to a serving plate. Pour off all but 2 tablespoon of fat and cook the onions in it until they are soft and translucent. Pour in the vinegar and chicken stock and add the bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat, scraping up any browned bits clinging to the bottom and sides of the pan. Return the rabbit with juices to the roaster or casserole. Add the drained bacon. Cover the vessel tightly, and simmer for 1 1/2 hours, or until the rabbits are tender but not falling apart. Serve the rabbit directly from the roaster or casserole, or arrange the pieces attractively on a heated platter.

Good Housekeeping's Poultry and Game Book, 1970


Braised Rabbit with Prunes

One 3 to 3 1/2 pound rabbit, cut into six to eight serving parts
Salt
Olive oil
1 Tbsp butter
3-4 large shallots, sliced, about 1 cup
1 clove garlic, minced
1 cup dry white wine (or chicken stock with a tablespoon of vinegar)
Freshly ground black pepper
7 ounces (200 grams) pitted prunes (dried plums)
Several sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 rabbit liver (optional, should be sold with the rabbit)
1 Tbsp vinegar (optional)

     Heat 3 Tbsp olive oil in a large thick-bottomed Dutch oven (I used a 5 quart) on medium-high heat. Add a tablespoon of butter. Pat dry the rabbit pieces, sprinkle all over with salt, and working in batches, brown on all sides in the pan. Remove the rabbit pieces from the pan. Add the sliced shallots, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the minced garlic clove and cook for 30 seconds more. Add the white wine and increase the heat to high. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Let the wine boil, until reduced by at least a half.Lower the heat to low (you may want to move the pot to the smallest burner on your stove). Arrange the rabbit pieces, prunes, thyme, and bay leaf in the pan. Sprinkle with black pepper to taste. Cover tightly and let cook for 45 minutes. (Cooking time assumes you are starting with a rabbit that has been brought to near room temp before cooking. If you are using a rabbit straight from the fridge, it may take a few more minutes to cook through. Also, if you keep lifting up the lid to check on the rabbit, it will increase the needed cooking time.) After the rabbit is cooked through, if you want, you can intensify the flavor of the sauce using the rabbit's liver. The liver should have been included with the rabbit from your butcher, just like whole chickens come with the giblets. (Don't worry, the liver won't make your dish taste like liver. You can even try just a little amount to taste to make sure. The liver acts as a "liaison", thickening the sauce and making it richer.) Purée the rabbit liver with 1 Tbsp of vinegar (I used wine vinegar, but cider or white vinegar will do). Remove the rabbit pieces, prunes, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf from the pot (discard thyme and bay leaves) to a serving dish. Whisk the puréed liver vinegar mixture into the sauce in the pot and cook for another 10 minutes. (If the sauce is still too thin, you can thicken further with corn starch or flour.) Then drizzle the sauce over and around the rabbit and prunes.


Rabbit in Wine (Lapin au Vin)
6 slices bacon
1 1/2 -3 lb fryer rabbit, cut up
2 1/2 cups dry red wine
1 cup (10 3/4 oz) condensed chicken broth
1 T ketchup
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup filtered cold water
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 jar (16 oz) whole onions, drained
1 can (4 oz) mushrooms, drained

     Fry bacon until crisp. Remove from frying pan, drain and crumble. Cook lapin (rabbit pieces) in the bacon fat on medium heat until light brown - 5 minutes each side. Move lapin into a 4 quart dutch oven. Stir in crumbled bacon, wine, chicken broth, ketchup, thyme, salt, pepper, and garlic. Heat to boiling; reduce heat. Cover and simmer until the thickest pieces are done, approximately 40-45 minutes. Remove lapin pieces; skim fat, if there is any. Shake water and flour in a tightly covered container; gradually stir into broth. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. Boil and stir 1 minute. Stir in onions and mushrooms. Return lapin to sauce. Heat to boiling - approximately 2 minutes. Serve over a bed of rice, noodles or mashed potatoes.

Good Housekeeping's Poultry and Game Book, 1970

Rabbit Cobbler
3 tbsp olive oil
1 leek, well washed and chopped
Salt and black pepper
2 c quartered button mushrooms
1 ½ c or more chicken stock or, if you have the foresight, rabbit stock
1 sprig fresh, chopped rosemary, plus more to mix into the cobbler batter
2 medium carrots, cut into coins
1 butchered rabbit
1 c peas, frozen or fresh
2 tbsp assorted fresh herbs (e.g., chives, lemon thyme, etc.)
1 c corn, frozen or fresh
2 tbsp cornstarch
2 c flour
1 ½ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
½ tsp salt
4 tbsp unsalted butter, cut into bits
1 cup buttermilk
2 eggs

     Heat oven to 375°F. Put oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When oil is hot, add the leek, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook until liquid has released and evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add stock and rosemary; bring to a boil, and let bubble for a minute or two, then add carrots and rabbit and reduce heat so the liquid simmers. Cook until carrots are almost tender and rabbit is cooked through — 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the type of rabbit. Pull out the rabbit parts and pull the meat from the bone. Chop up the meat and add it back into the pot. Add peas, herbs, and corn and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are brightly colored and just tender, another minute or so. Whisk cornstarch with a few tablespoons of broth to make a slurry. Add slurry to pot and stir until liquid thickens slightly. Transfer everything to an ovenproof dish and set aside.
Put flour in a food processor with rosemary, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add butter and process until mixture resembles small peas, no more than 30 seconds. (You can also do this by hand, using two knives, a fork, your fingers, or a pastry cutter). Transfer mixture to a bowl and mix in buttermilk and eggs until it just comes together; it should be sticky. Drop spoonfuls of batter on top of vegetables and rabbit and smooth with a knife, covering as much surface area as possible but leaving a few gaps for steam to escape. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes until golden on top and bubbly underneath. Scoop into bowls and serve immediately.



Rabbit Ragout
2 pounds rabbit, cut into small serving pieces
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup diced yellow onion
1/3 cup diced celery
1/3 cup diced carrot
1 small fennel bulb, diced
1-½ teaspoons fennel seed, toasted in a dry skillet until fragrant, then crushed
2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons Pernod
1 cup dry white wine
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
¼ heaping teaspoon saffron threads
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth or seasoned homemade chicken stock
1 can (28 ounces) plum tomatoes in juice

     Season the rabbit all over with salt and pepper. Reserve the rabbit liver, if available, in the refrigerator. In a large braising pan or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Brown the rabbit pieces, about 2 minutes on each side. (Do not crowd the pan; brown the rabbit in batches, if necessary.) As rabbit is browned, transfer to a plate. Add the onion, celery, carrot and fennel to the pan, and sauté for about 3 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Stir in the fennel seed, garlic and tomato paste, and sauté 1 minute. Add the Pernod and wine and reduce for 5 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan to get all the browned bits up. Add the bay leaves, thyme, saffron and broth, and using clean hands, crush the tomatoes and add them to the mixture with their juice. Return the rabbit and any accumulated juices to the pan. Poke rabbit down into liquid to make sure it is covered. Bring to a simmer and braise, uncovered, keeping the sauce at a constant low simmer for about 50 to 60 minutes or until meat is very tender. Remove the sauce from the heat and transfer the rabbit meat from the sauce to a baking sheet. Discard the bay leaves. Return the sauce to very low heat. Very finely chop the reserved liver and stir into the hot sauce. When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull the meat from the bones. Discard the bones, chop the meat into rustic pieces and mix it back into the sauce. (Be careful of small bones.) Taste the sauce for salt and season to taste. Enough for 1 pound fresh fettuccine pasta.

Bigos, Hunter's Stew
1 3/4 lb sauerkraut
4 strips bacon, diced
1 small head cabbage, thinly sliced
Small handful of dried mushrooms
1/2 lb boneless venison, leg, or a stewing cut (not the loin), cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 lb boneless stew beef, such as chuck, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 lb pork or veal shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/4 cup flour
3 tablespoons vegetable oil or lard
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 cup red wine
1/2 lb smoked kielbasa, thickly sliced
1 cup pitted prunes, quartered
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Bread for serving, preferably rustic and dark, such as a Russian loaf


     Drain the sauerkraut, place it in a medium saucepan, and add 2 cups water and bacon pieces. Cover and boil over medium heat for 20 minutes or longer, until the sauerkraut is very tender and the bacon is cooked. Meanwhile, put the fresh cabbage and dried mushrooms in a separate saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Continue boiling until the cabbage is tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. Rinse all the meat and pat dry. Put the flour in a shallow bowl and toss the meat to coat. Heat 1 tbsp of the vegetable oil over medium heat in a stew pot large enough to hold all the meat and vegetables. Cook the onion until softened, remove with a slotted spoon, and set aside. Add the remaining 2 tbsp oil to the pot and lightly brown the meat, in batches, over medium heat, 2 to 3 minutes per side, transferring the meat to a plate when finished.When all the meat has been browned, raise the heat to high, pour in the wine, and boil briefly, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Return the meat and all its resting juices back to the pot, and add the onion, kielbasa, prunes, cabbage, and the sauerkraut and bacon mixture, along with its cooking water. Salt generously, add several grinds of pepper, and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat, cover the pot with the lid slightly askew, and simmer on very low heat for a good 2 to 3 hours, until the meat falls apart and the broth is rich and brown. Stir the stew occasionally, and ensure that the liquid isn’t evaporating too quickly (add a small amount of water when necessary). Serve with bread.


Covert Urban Homesteading, Part 2: Animals


   Without animals, your urban homestead is really just a super-nice garden. To really maximize your land use, you will want to get some small herbivores to convert your kitchen waste and yard refuse into instant fertilizer and protein. It should be noted that since you have a homestead here, and not an urban farm, you should be trying to provide as much of your animal feed as possible yourself. Buying feed is not what homesteaders do, it's what urbanites do, right?
     Every one of these animals will need their human caregivers to protect them from human and animal threats in addition to providing quality feed and water, and a clean living environment. Urban homesteaders here in Florida will have numerous pests such as weasels, hawks, cranes, cats, dogs, snakes, raccoons, teenagers, homeless, and the odd code enforcement official to contend with.

     Rabbits are by far my favorite outside animal. They can live on a completely home-grown diet of grasses and weeds, or planted vegetation. Larger operations will probably appreciate he convenience of pellet, which is not prohibitively expensive. The meat and manure are high quality, and extra stock can be sold as pets.

     Chickens are hilarious little birds. I've read that a combination of cat food and day-old bread, supplemented with egg shells, can be enough food for them, though I've never tried it.

     Quail need an extremely high protein diet as naturally they would eat nothing but insects. I've heard that they thrive in areas high in cockroaches, so...

     Guinea Pigs, also called cuys, are good eats in parts of South America. Think of them as slightly smaller rabbits.

     Mice/Hamsters. I'm considering raising them just for their cat and dog food value, since they will eat rabbit pellet and kitchen scraps and be fine with that. Maybe ground hamster could become the next big chicken or fish feed additive?

     Pigeons, especially homing pigeons, are popular outdoor pets in West Florida. I've heard that they can free-range and return home very well. They eat similar feed as chickens.

Menagerie Monday Linkup     Fish can be kept in aquariums as pets, raised for meat value, or raised for their plant fertilization value (think Aquaponics). Crawdads, catfish, and tilapia are all raised successfully here in Florida. Perhaps one of the most covert urban animal operations could involve a decorative "koi" pond filled with catfish or tilapia (Guess what I'm building in my back yard!).

     Bees live very well here in Florida, the main consideration being the location and disguise of your hive(s). After all, no one can complain you have bees if they can't see the hives. Most urban and suburban areas of Florida have decorative flowering plants and trees, that produce year-round blooms.


Surprising Azolla Harvest

     The azolla in the newly built pond is finally growing up to the expectations claimed by numerous sources on the internet. Though the little pond is perhaps about 10 square feet of surface area, and even with the floating  planters, I was able to harvest a full pot of azolla last week and another pot of azolla today.
     I have been steaming to destroy bacteria (and  tadpoles) on the plants before draining and freezing into ice cube trays for ease of feeding to the rabbits. But it just brings up the good point, that if a person was starving, here is an extremely prolific food source for a survival garden.
Tasty Tuesday Linkup     The only way to find the betta fish is by harvesting the azolla. It might not be a good idea to add this particular floating plant to decorative koi ponds. Now that my pond is up and running, I find myself wondering why not grow edible snails? They eat algae and won't disturb the floating planters, azolla, or fish.

Azolla, Azolla spp.

 Uses: Edible, Fodder, Fertilizer. Native to: The Cretaceous Period, worldwide.
     This floating water plant is actually a tiny, prehistoric fern with amazing properties. It fixes atmospheric nitrogen due to its symbiotic relationship with cyanobacteria, like an aquatic version of our more common legumes. Due to its nitrogen-fixation, it is also an extremely protein-rich plant, making it an excellent choice for home-grown fodder. In fact, there are very few land-based livestock animals that will not eat azolla, if any. Chickens, rabbits, goats, ducks, and cows are reported to gorge on this aquatic plant.
     Historically it has been used as a wetland green manure crop in the warmer parts of Asia. In the spring when taro or rice is planted in the boglands, the azolla would be innoculated to the water's surface. There the little ferns would fix nitrogen and proliferate, crowding out any competing algae or weeds via shading. Since the rice and taro have most of their foliage above water-level, it does not hinder their growth. The azolla will thrive, then self-mulch, then die down when the cooler weather comes. The farmers harvest some and shelter it for next year's use. The green manure properties of azolla make it possibly the six most valuable ferns on the planet.
A close-up of the roots which hang into the water.
     It's culture is simple - grow it in clean still or gentle water. Wind and water turbulence can fragment and destroy azolla, so sometimes floating beds are used. Like duckweed, under the right conditions it can become weedy if it escapes into waterways, so care should be taken to prevent escape. Since it provides it's own nitrogen, phosphorous can be a limiting factor to optimal growth. "The symptoms of phosphorous deficiency are red-coloured
fronds (due the presence of the pigment anthocyanin), decreased growth and curled
roots." A quick search of the webs reveals a superior organic source of high quality phosphorous can be made by burning animal bones at high temperatures to ashes. Never has a rocket mass heater in florida sounded more appealing!
     Azolla species can be used as a very nutritious survival food for humans, but it will need to be cooked to destroy any pathogens that might be living in the watery growing media. For animals, this compilated table shows it to have 16.5% crude protein and a bevy of other useful vitamins, like leucine and alanine. This Australian study lists many of the benefits of using azolla as a large-scale fodder source, but points out a simple drawback to commercial production - that contamination of the plantings by tiny freshwater shrimp can occur. This accidental animal protein renders the azolla illegal to sell as a feed source for ruminants in Australia, as they have strict legislation prohibiting animal proteins for ruminant consumption there. They also recommend the azolla be fed fresh or refrigerated, but within a week of harvest.
     A very nice synopsis of azolla research here.
Some free aquatic snail contamination.
I don't speak this language, but the video is very informative even muted.

Chicken Rules for Hernando


"A divided county commission voted Tuesday to allow chickens in residential areas but tacked on several restrictions that call for neighbor buy-in and assured residents the new ordinance doesn’t supersede existing deed restrictions.
They also capped the number of backyard chickens to four per household and required the owner keep the coop out of view from neighbors."

      According to my source (the chicken lady herself), the permits are $100 with an additional $25 inspection fee. Safe to say the people already keeping chickens illegally will probably not be wasting their time and money on the permits.


Backyard Foraging

     I may have said it before, but the gentleman over at Eat the Weeds is doing some good work. This particular video is my favorite one yet.