Eat Your Sand, beautiful edibles for the front yard

Announcing the official opening of project Eat Your Sand

After two grueling years of college, I have finally emerged. Hopefully the headaches will be over, and I will have more time to do the things that I love to do, like teach the little ones about nature and growing plants. I have also been cultivating a minimalist lifestyle, and this spring I have been potting and propagating, in hopes to find other permits to trade with, or just interested gardeners. Its not about selling plants and rabbits, its about sharing, getting, and producing bounty. Care of people and all.
So this spring I have more growies than I know what to do with. It has inspired me to create a trading page with a listing of everything that I have a lot of success with, including rabbits and premium plants.
Come check it out
EatYourSand
Don't hesitate to shoot me an email or use the form to contact me. I love to trade! Eat Your Sand will be updated frequently with what is currently being offered, and I am willing to travel to trade.

Manure Brewer

How to ghetto-tastically make a manure brewer. (Say that 5 times fast!)

     The first step: Get your hands on a blue barrel. This is probably the hardest part, but they are out there if you really want them. There are many sources,  I ghetto-tastically just asked someone who wasn't using theirs.
     Then, using a saw, slice in half in the middle. This is the best time to clean the inside out really good.
     If it had a cap or plug on the top, take it off. Get a large piece of old screen to more than cover the cap area.
     In the base, drill a hole and install a spigot. This will need to be glued and caulked very well so there are no leakage problems.
 Then invert the top onto the bottom, so the top acts as a cup for the raw manure. It should be open to the air so rain can come in.

This one isn't so attractive. Yours can be better.

     Then fill the whole top with all the rabbit manure, waste hay, other manure, and small bits of kitchen waste, like eggshells. If you find any worms in your garden, add them as well.
     How to use the manure brewer:
Dump water in the open top
Open the spigot and drain manure water into your watering can or bucket.
Take the watering can or bucket to your hungry plants, water slowly so more nutrition is absorbed.

Harvesting the Cranberry Hibiscus

     Earlier this spring my mother found these young plants at a garage sale, and they must have been priced well because she picked up one for me. It turned out the bargain annual happened to be the interesting and beautiful Hibiscus sabdariffa mentioned on the Florida Survival Gardening blog by David. No doubt the original seeds were from ECHO, as my mother lives not too far from there.

     I had no idea this plant could be so beautiful, unusual, useful, pest free, maintenance free...

     Today I am going to harvest the fruit. According to David, the round green bits are not the delicious part, but are where the seeds are stored. It's the red wrappers (or calyx) around the  round green fruit that is used for cooking and eating. This year recouping seeds is a high priority, since this is the only plant that I can source, and likely the only cranberry hibiscus growing in my county. It would be amazing to grow about 10 of these next year, as they like full sun. They do visibly wilt if you neglect to ensure hydration, but bounce back very easily and quickly. (I must have wilted it at least 5 times during the hot part of the summer.) Never would a tomato be this resilient.


       The leaves are edible, and I can tell you that the rabbits eat these leaves even before they eat their normal favorite weeds, Spanish Needle (Bidens alba). Although Hibiscus sabdariffa is tasty, none of the plants in the mallow family, or rose family, are particularly high in nitrogen (protein about 2 1/2%) - a consideration for overall rabbit dietary needs. I did eat a few of the leaves, which were very mild but did have a pretty tasty flavor, much better than Bidens, which is tart. These leaves would be good in a salad or on a sandwich (which is probably what I will be doing since the cold weather is here.)

     The seeds are higher in protein and very high in omega 6 fatty acids, and in quantity are valued as animal feed, particularly for chickens.

     This is the first and largest of probably two harvests from my one plant.

Banana path update, one year later

     Remember the photo of these banana sticks that I planted last February?
     Surprisingly, all but one survived, and have turned into these beautiful, tropical trees. Photo taken in December.
     Underneath, on the southern side, I have decided to place another small sunken rabbit manure garden, planted up with taro, onions, annuals for the rabbits, and whatever else I can find.

Another Great Reason to Grow Lemon Trees

     There are several reasons to grow citrus trees even if your production of fruit turns out disappointing, or if you live in an apartment and only have room for a small plant in dim light indoors.
     Vitamins found in the leaves can be higher than the vitamins found in the fruit. This includes vitamin C, potassium, and vitamin A precursor. Potassium and vitamin C are not stored well by the body, so have to be replenished periodically by the diet. There is some evidence that dehydrating the leaves concentrates the vitamins, as long as the dehydrating is performed without excessive heat. Can we say valuable post-apocalyptic trading commodity? Also a great reason to enjoy herbal tisanes and justify the cost of an inexpensive solar dehydrator for the backyard.
     Citrus greening could become a problem, but not if you are growing the plants specifically for the leaves. Greening is the newest, baddest threat to Florida's citrus industry, basically an uncontrollable bacteria that causes fruit to improperly ripen. However, leaves are unaffected, and the bacteria is not a human pathogen. The best time to harvest leaves is right before the lemon trees flower and fruit, as that is when they will have the maximum nutrition. Meyer lemons flower in December, usually, and fruit a few months later. The flowers are fragrant and nutritious too! Citrus trees are perennials, so care must be taken to sustainably harvest them.
     As much as IFAS and the news sensationalize the plights of the citrus industry, most citrus trees are largely resistant to pests. Perhaps it is because those statistics come from the monocultured orchard citrus industry. Perhaps it's because most are already grafted before you have the opportunity to purchase the trees. Perhaps it is because most people's backyard citrus are not planted so densely so as to encourage the growth of pests and the lack of beneficial insects and bacteria. Remember this previous article about how the state destroyed thousands of homeowner's citrus trees, then lost a lawsuit because it was scientifically unfounded? It just shows that they don't really know the answers either.
     The fruit has many culinary uses. It is used in canning to lower pH and prevent oxidation. It can be used to cook raw fish without heat, but dehydrates the proteins - changing the texture. Lemonade. Household cleaner. Fragrance. Color. Limitless possibilities.
     It may have some medicinal properties. Although not thoroughly researched here in the US, lemon is used in Ayurveda in India. According to this study, lemon is used to treat disorders of the throat and persistent catarrh (inflammation of the mucous membranes usually in the airway, causing an overproduction of phlegm and mucus). The low pH of lemon juice inhibits bacterial growth. Certainly vitamin C is absolutely necessary in our diet. Remember this post where I wrote about vitamin C and guinea pigs (as a survival protein source)? We all need good nutrition.
     The recommendations for lemon culture from IFAS state that lemons are more vigorous than most citrus species and that dense plantings encourage pests. They are recommended for the warmest, sunniest part of the landscape that does not flood. IFAS doesn't recommend propagation by seed, but rather grafting onto a rootstock specifically chosen to avoid certain soil pathogens.

Home-made Ollas

     Ollas (oi-yas) are a traditional Central American method of irrigation. One simply plants the terra cotta vessel in the garden, then plants the most water-needy vegetables near the olla. The more drought-tolerant vegetables are located further from the olla. Then the ollas are topped with water regularly, slowly leaking moisture to the soil nearby. The surface soil and leaves never receive watering with this method, which eliminates water lost through evaporation.
     To make some yourself, you will need terra cotta pots, some stones, super glue, and bathroom caulk. The best place to find terra cotta pots cheap is to look at garage sales and rummage sales, or ask any friends that think they have "black thumbs". I used to have bromeliads in these when I was an apartment dweller, but now that I have a yard, the smaller pots seem like more work than they are worth.
     Glue a stone over the drainage hole on the bottom of the pot. Allow to dry, then caulk around the stone to ensure waterproofing. Super glue the superior pot on the top, allow to dry, then caulk around the edges to waterproof. Bury where you plan on having the veg grow, leave the top exposed for adding water.

Cowpeas, Black-Eye Peas, Vigna unguiculata

Uses: Edible, Forage, Legumes, Xeriscaping. Native to: West Africa
     A true survival food, the cowpea is grown for its edible beans and leaves. It's a nitrogen-fixing legume, which allows it to grow in extremely poor soils. In addition, it's one of the best fodder plants for the deep south.
     Not only do cowpeas grow very well in this area, it seems that wildlife has very little interest in them. This can be a boon when squirrels and birds frequently do their best to defeat even the most resilient of gardeners.
     Plant cowpeas in the early spring, around the beginning of March if no additional freezes are reported. Plant them again at the end of September. They are a short-season annual that only needs about 3-4 months to produce a whole crop of beans. The beans germinate faster if soaked in clean water for 2-4 hours before planting. If desired, innoculate with additional nitrogen-fixing bacteria, but this step is not necessary in order to get good results. Grows very well in the full sun provided they plants have enough moisture to prevent wilting.
     Cowpeas have also been shown to be an excellent green manure and annual cover crop, as they grow in poor soil and have a short growing season. Supposedly they arrived in the US via the slave trade, and are still a New Years Day traditional holiday food in the south.
     Mine are originally from the grocery store, and I have been growing them now successfully for a while. I'm attempting to hybridize some cowpeas that particularly enjoy our weather and soil, though I have been amending the soil with rabbit manure for some time as well. This variety is low-growing and bushy, and can be planted very closely together to maximize your growing space. They are very well-behaved little plants, and will stay where they are placed. At the end of their cycle the beans and plants politely die and dry right on the plant, making harvest very easy.

Timber for Florida's Future

   I may have already said that I ardently believe that Florida's natural state is forested, and that it's weather and plants do everything they can to return the state to a forested system, time and again. Perhaps we should work with nature instead of against her, and plan Florida's agriculture to its forests and not to cattle pastures and tomatoes. After all, citrus trees can be part of a silviculture system, when properly managed.
     In the not-so-distant past we were all about growing timber, and some parts of North Florida still are. The construction lag has reduced the timber industry nationwide, but there will always be a need for lumber. Moreover, there are dozens if not hundreds of native and exotic trees that can be used to produce high-quality lumber products.

Grow a Forest in 3 Years

      This amazing essay was written in 1964 by an agricultural professor in Athens, Georgia. He outlines some information gleaned from their test site, which uses the American Sycamore tree, a member of the maple family, to very quickly produce high-quality timber and rough cellulose. The species grows very well in the entire east side of the country, is relatively pest-free, and can produce maple syrup and mushrooms as a by-product (read: secondary income). It grows quickly from seeds and is a prolific producer. The trees are even great at growing where other timber species can't or won't.
     I'm not advocating large fields of trees, but I am advocating some parts to life that can be more sustainable. What about permaculture farms that grow pecans, citrus, persimmons, cacti, pines, and other useful trees in polycutures? With processing facilities nearby or on-site, the value added could be enormous.

     Another favorable long-term study for commercial growth of Sycamore and Sweetgum in the deep south.

Spiderwort, Tradescantia spp., Asparagus of the South

Uses : Edible, Forage, Xeriscaping. Native to : Eastern North America.
     There are several Tradescantia members that look similar, notably T. virginiana and T. ohiensis. The good news is that they are both edible. The bad news is that when anyone thinks of Tradescantia, they usually think of the striped (Wandering Jew) or purple (Purple Heart, Moses in a Boat), which are inedible.
     These purple beauties will bloom all spring, but each flower  is only open for a day or so. They are very successful, some might even say invasive, and can survive some mowing. The best practice is to relocate these hardy perennials to a flower bed in the full sun.
     Rabbits do enjoy eating them, along with some humans. Green Deane says:

     "Its leaves do not change in flavor as the plant ages. The leaves are good for salads as well, or in soup and stews but they are mucilaginous. The stems can be braised like asparagus. The flowers, at one time favorites for candying, make very pretty blue additions to back yard salads." 

   

Yucca gloriosa, Spanish Dagger

Uses : Fencing, Edible, Forage, Fiber, Wildlife. Native to : Southeastern US.
     There seems to be a lot of confusion over Spanish Bayonet and Spanish Dagger on the internet, and if you search for images of one or the other you will get both plants, some of which are improperly labeled. Here is what IFAS has to say on the subject:

"Spanish bayonet is often confused with Spanish Dagger. Leaf margins on Spanish Dagger (Yucca gloriosa) are smooth, whereas those on Yucca aloifolia (Spanish bayonet) are rough. The outer halves of the leaves on Spanish dagger also bend toward the ground, whereas those on Spanish bayonet do not."

     Finally, we have a clear ruling. I had thought my plants were Spanish Bayonet for the last few years in error, they were actually the less painful Spanish Dagger - although still quite painful! The leaves are rigid and spiky, and because the leaves point in every single direction it makes that plants as difficult to handle as a porcupine rolled in peanut oil. The spiky painfulness is probably why this plant is almost never commercially propagated, sad because it is a disease-free, sun-and-sand-loving, pest-resistant plant.
     It is a native in the yucca/agave family, and the flowers and fruit are edible. The white flowers attract bees. It is very easy to propagate, just dig any runners from the base of the plant and move to a sunny spot of the landscape. Very attractive and easy to care for in containers. The leaves are edible to rabbits. Can tolerate beach conditions. The roots contain saponins, but can be cooked to become edible. Or, perhaps, to yield soap? Like Century Plant, the leaves can be made into fibers for ropes, basketry, and clothing.
     It may get 15-20 feet high, then break off during a violent storm, as happened here. These leaves are going to become rabbit manure over the next few weeks.

Spanish Bayonet, Highways and Byways of Florida,  1918.

Perennial Vegetables for the South

     Ever since I found this list I have been returning to it whenever I might be going to a plant sale or nursery. There are many plant sales in the spring and fall, so here's a great list of plants that produce food and grow well here in Florida.
     Most, if not all, of these plants can also be fed to the rabbits, except for maybe taro.                                        

Perennial in all of the Hot and Humid zone:

Allium ampeloprasum perennial sweet leek

Allium cepa aggregatum shallot

Allium cepa aggregatum potato onion

Allium cepa proliferum walking onion

Allium fistulosum Welsh onion

Allium tuberosum garlic chives

Apios americana groundnut

Aralia cordata udo

Arundinaria gigantean canebrake bamboo

Asparagus officinalis asparagus

Asphodeline lutea yellow asphodel

Atriplex halimus saltbush

Bambusa spp. clumping bamboos

Brassica oleracea acephala tropical tree kale

Bunias orientalis Turkish rocket

Camassia scillioides wild hyacinth

Canna edulis achira

Cedrella sinensis fragrant spring tree

Cnidoscolus spp. bull nettles

Colocasia esculenta ‘Celery Stem’ taro

Colocasia esculenta taro, cocoyam, eddo, dasheen

Cynara cardunculus cardoon

Cynara scolymus ‘Purple Sicilian’ globe artichoke

Cyperus esculentus sativa chufa

Dioscorea bulbifera air potato

Dioscorea japonica jinenjo

Dioscorea opposita Chinese yam

Diplotaxis spp. sylvetta arugula

Helianthus tuberosa sunchoke

Hemerocallis daylily

Malva moschata musk mallow

Nasturtium officinale watercress

Nelumbo nucifera water lotus

Oenanthe javanica water celery

Opuntia spp. spineless nopale cactus

Petasites japonicus fuki

Phyllostachys spp. running bamboos

Phytolacca americana pokeweed

Polygonatum biflorum canaliculatum giant Solomon’s seal

Qiongzhuea tumidissinoda running bamboo

Rumex acetosa French sorrel

Rumex acetosa ‘Profusion’ sorrel

Rumex acetosella sheep sorrel

Rumex scutatus silver shield sorrel

Sagittaria latifolia arrowhead

Sagittaria sinensis Chinese arrowhead

Sasa kurilensis chishima-zasa bamboo

Scorzonera hispanica scorzonera

Semiarundinaria fastuosa temple bamboo

Stachys sieboldii Chinese artichoke

Taraxacum officinale dandelion

Tilia spp. linden

Perennial in colder parts of the Hot and Humid zone:

Allium tricoccum ramps

Chenopodium bonus-henricus good king Henry

Cicorium intybus chicory

Crambe maritima sea kale

Laportaea canadensis wood nettle

Levisticum officinale lovage

Matteuccia struthiopteris ostrich fern

Urtica dioica nettles

Perennial in warmer parts of the Hot and Humid zone, or perennial with protection. Most of these species can also be grown as annuals in the colder parts of this zone.

Abelmoschus manihot edible hibiscus (as dieback perennial)

Alternanthera sissoo sissoo spinach

Arracacia xanthorhiza arracacha

Basella alba Malabar spinach

Brassica oleracea wild cabbage

Brassica oleracea acephala ‘Western Front’ perennial kale

Brassica oleracea acephala ‘Tree Collards’, ‘Walking Stick Kale’

Brassica oleracea alboglabra gai lon

Brassica oleracea botrytis perennial broccoli, including ‘9 Star’

Brassica oleracea ramosa branching bush kale, including ‘Dorbentons’

Capsicum annum ‘Perennial Capsicum’ sweet pepper

Carica papaya papaya

Coccinia grandis ‘Sterile’ perennial cucumber (probably as dieback perennial in colder parts)

Cnodoscilus chayamansa chaya (as dieback perennial)

Cucurbita ficifolia Malabar gourd

Dendrocalamus spp. clumping bamboos (probably as dieback perennial even in warmest parts)

Dioscorea alata white yam

Dioscorea esculenta asiatic lesser yam

Dioscorea trifida cush cush yam

Dolichos lablab hyacinth bean

Eleocharis dulcis water chestnut

Gigantochloa spp. clumping bamboos (probably as dieback perennial in bad winters)

Gynura crepioides Okinawa spinach

Hibiscus acetosella cranberry hibiscus

Ipomoea aquatica water spinach

Ipomoea batatas sweet potato

Momordica charantia bitter gourd

Manihot esculenta cassava

Moringa spp. moringa (as dieback perennial)

Musa x paradisica ‘Rajapuri’ banana (warmest parts, with long season protection)

Nastus elatus clumping bamboo

Oxalis tuberosa oca

Phaseolus coccineus runner bean

Phaseolus lunatus Lima bean

Phaseolus polysantus cache bean

Physalis pruinosa ground cherry

Psophocarpus tetragonobolus ‘Day Length Neutral’ winged bean

Psophocarpus tetragonobolus winged bean

Saccharum edule pitpit

Sauropus androgynous katuk (as dieback perennial)

Sechium edule chayote

Smallianthus sonchifolia yacon

Solanum tuberosum & spp. potato

Tetragonia tetragonioides New Zealand spinach

Trichostigma octandrum basket vine (as dieback perennial)

Xanthosoma brasiliense belembe

Xanthosoma saggitifolium tannier, yautia, malanga (roots need long season)

Xanthosoma violaceum violet-stem taro (roots need long season)

Scrub Trees for Survival Fodder

     There has been a growing movement for farmers to seek additional feed sources for drought seasons and winter. Traditionally farmers would set aside dry feed or silage for the winter, but many have found themselves unprepared for warm seasons of extreme drought. This, like everything else, makes pastured meat more expensive.

     The Australians have really been looking into this problem, and they have suggested planting trees for fodder during drought. If done with alley-cropping techniques, this can actually increase pasture production thanks to the windbreaks and shade the trees will produce.

     If your animals are having trouble accepting the survival fodder, or you aren't sure what to feed them, more information is here. Rabbits can eat anything horses can eat, and I think goats and cattle as well. 

     Some of the best agricultural information is coming from the tropics these days.

Once fodder trees began to be planted on-farm, the 

technology spread rapidly throughout the region, as

farmers quickly realized the nutritional benefits of 

feeding fresh leaves to their cows.

Privet, Ligustrum japonicum

Uses: Xeriscaping, Wildlife. Native to: Japan
     This exotic shrub is widely planted as a privacy hedge. It should be considered for other reasons though, because it is very attractive to birds, bees, and butterflies. It grows very well in sand and full sun.
     Although a member of the olive family, all parts are known to be toxic. I am unable to find actual research on this, and relatives of this plant have been found to kill horses.
     Not a native, but not an invasive either. Despite statements made on gardening websites, the State of Florida officially has not found privet in undisturbed areas, so it is considered a safe non-native. I would definitely landscape with this and other plants if I was attempting to xeriscape a property. I would concur with IFAS on this one; Ligustrum does not reseed as others say it does.
     Members of the Ligustrum family have been used in Europe for adding natural color to clothing.

Bamboo

Native to: Asia.  Uses: Edible, Forage, Xeriscaping, Fencing, Fuel, Building Material, Clothing Textile.
     I love bamboo. It's got a very tropical, Asian feel to it, indeed, it is the definition plant for Japanese-style gardens. It grows very quickly thanks to it's unique rhizomial adaptations. It has a million and one uses. And rabbits love it.
     I think most people should understand before they plant bamboo that it is a giant grass. And think of how hard it is to get rid of grass in Florida once it is established! So extreme care should be taken before a planting of bamboo is placed anywhere. It should probably not be planted over sewer lines, electrical lines, water pipes, etc.
     My large bamboo is in a pot, while my dwarf bamboo hides underneath a palmetto bush. Hopefully that will be good enough to keep my yard safe.
     This pile of bamboo was laying by the curb at a neighbor's house. Silly people.

The (Draft) Safe Plant List for Florida Rabbits

     There is a large conversation taking up bits of internet as more people worldwide work on safe, natural diets to feed rabbits. There is so much information out there, but most is for climates that have plants that do not grow well here in Central Florida.

     The nutritional makeup up a rabbit's complete diet is a large subject best explored here (Rabbit Nutrition: The Numbers). This is meant to be just a list of safe plants, along with a list of common but unsafe plants. Starred items I have personally fed my rabbits with no ill effects.

Grassy Types 

     Banana leaves*

     Rye*

     Bamboo*

     Yellow Nutsedge*

     Bahia*

     Plantain*

     Sunflower

     Sorghum*

     Pampas Grass*

     Fountain Grass

     Kenaf
Papyrus*

Legume Types

     Cowpea leaves*

     Peanut leaves and shells*

     Black Turtle bean leaves*

     Green runner bean leaves*

     Desmodium spp. leaves*

Herb Types

     Spanish Needle (Bidens alba, Bidens pilosa)*

     Soap Ginger*

     Cardamom Ginger

     Purslane*

     Sweet potato leaves*

     All Rosaceae family, including blackberry*, raspberry, pears*, and roses

     Sycamore*

     Maple*

     Hibiscus*

     Mulberry

     Citrus leaves*

     Persimmon leaves*

     Canna leaves*

     Squash spp.*

     Carrot leaves*

     Cilantro*

     Rosemary

     Basil

     Parsley*

     Lemongrass

     Oregano

     Sage

     Prickly Pear (spines removed)

     Pusley, Brazilian* and Floridian*

     Violet Woodsorrel*
Palmetto*
Spanish Dagger*
Cabbage*
Spiderwort*
Loquat*

Unsafe but common plants

     Crinum

     Century plant

     All Prunus species including Cherry Laurel (fruit may be safe, pits are not)

     Chinaberry Tree

     4 O'Clocks

     Taro, Dasheen, Elephant Ear

     Caladium

     Amaryllis

     Gladiolus

     White Potato Greens

     Oleander

     Tomato plants

     Crape Myrtle

     Lantana

     Privet

     Frangipani

     Rhoeo spathacea Steam (syn. R. discolor Hance)

     Oyster plant

     Moses-in-a-Boat (Purple Heart)

     Rain lily
Asthma Weed, Spurge

Unknown Toxicity Status

     Heliconia

     Ixora
Oak trees and acorns

     Hydrangea

     Ferns

     Bromeliads

     Cabbage Palm

     Crepe Myrtle

     Fig

     Pine needles

     Stargazer or Daylily

     Kiwi

     Muscadine grape

     Orange Honeysuckle

     Mexican Creeper

     Passionflower

     Magnolia

     Allamanda

     Confederate Jasmine

     Wisteria

     Dog Fennel

     Liriope

     Peace Lily

     Periwinkle

     Mexican Petunia

     Air Potato, Diascorea spp.

     Mimosa

     Acacia spp.

     Begonia spp.

     Cypress spp.

     Pecan leaves

     Prickly sida, Sida spinosa
Monkey Ear Tree leaves

     Here is a quick list of some rabbit-safe forages from Hawaii. It may give some ideas to those who live in South Florida.

Kiawe (mesquite) 

Mulberry 

Plantain (the small green lawn weed type as well as the banana types of plantain)

Sweet potato vines

Sunflower - seeds, leaves and stems 

Grape vines and leaves 

Rosemary (it is said rosemary will make their wool lustrous, however they won't always eat it.) 

Basil 

Lemon balm 

Daikon 

Banana - leaves, skins, fruit and trunk

Corn - husks, leaves and stems - not too much of the grain, though.

Roses - leaves, flowers and stems 

Beet greens  - not too much of the root, but you are supposed to eat that yourself.

Pigeon Pea - leaves and pods

Russian olive - although they may not like the taste

Ti leaves

Guinea grass - although they prefer the young leaves to the old stickery ones.

Dandelions

Carrots, especially the green tops

Nasturiums

Parsley

Alfalfa

Clover

   
Rabbits turn weeds into fertilizer, just think of the possibilities...

Chinese Tallow Tree, Triadica sebifera

Uses : Medicinal, Xeriscaping. Native to : Asia.

     The Chinese Tallow tree was introduced to the United States during the 1700's, and since then it has made itself at home throughout the southeast coastal states. It is now considered an invasive species by the state of Florida and is illegal to propagate and transport. In some areas the trees are notoriously difficult to remove, being known to successfully re-sprout from stumps and forgotten seeds. It grows very well on lands that are unsuitable for row agriculture, like, oh, most of Florida. It has naturalized itself in some areas, displacing native plants and animal habitats.
     It was originally introduced for commercial production of natural vegetable oil from the white seed coats, but industry never really took off. Perhaps it is too difficult to remove the seed coats from the fruit. An easy to grow natural vegetable oil would be a great crop for the South if it were viable. Popcorn trees are largely unaffected by pests. It attracts bees and butterflies. Birds and squirrels eat the fruits, reluctantly, if there isn't anything tastier to be found.
     I think the seeds would have a good use in starting campfires as a kindling, if you are a fan of cooking or relaxing with a campfire. Being naturally high in oil, they should work quite well for that purpose. It also will prevent the tree from reseeding all over your yard.
     The leaves change a range of beautiful oranges and reds in the fall, which is one  of the reasons it formerly was planted nationwide as an ornamental. This quality and it's fast-growing nature would make it an excellent specimen for a bonsai practitioner, being mindful that it is illegal to propagate. Then again in Florida gardening is only illegal when it bothers someone else... so a well-maintained bonsai (with prompt fruit removal) from is unlikely to cause trees sprouting in the neighborhood.
     The milky white sap of the tree is toxic, like all other plants with milky saps. Please be careful when handling parts of Popcorn tree, and avoid sap to skin or eyes contamination.
     The seedling problem is largely overstated here in West Florida where we have very distinct dry and wet seasons. There are maybe 10 to 30 Tallow trees here in this town, and they all appear to be about the same age, which leads to the idea that perhaps they all came from one nursery about 25 years ago. There are no seedling trees here to be found, possibly a side effect of frequent urban mowing.

Canna Lily (not really a lily at all)

Uses: Edible, Forage, Xeriscaping. Native to : Southeastern United States.

     This popular ornamental plant can be seen blooming everywhere in midsummer, but it is also a valuable part of a survival garden. The leaves and flowers are showy and tropical, shooting up from a rhizome that is loaded with starch.

     They are closely related to ginger, and will do well in any area that ginger does well in. Like ginger, they will freeze to the ground in wintertime and come back next spring. Cannas can handle full sun if planted in well-drained soil with adequate rainfall. Like taro, they do well in fairly damp areas.
     The roots can be dug and cooked like a potato, usually for at least two to five hours. Traditionally the rhizome was cooked then mashed and strained to remove the fibers. The starch is well known for being easily digestible for infants and elderly. In Vietnam, large amounts of canna are grown to make cellophane noodles. 

     If the rhizomes can be used as a potato, it would logically follow that a very enterprising individual could distill liquor from them much as a vodka is made. Perhaps cannas and taro could be a great source for  a southern alcohol bio-fuel?
     The leaves and stems are used as animal feed in some areas, as cannas can grow well on marginal lands with little soil nutrition. The plants are relatively unaffected by pests, which is no surprise considering how well they do here in Florida.

     Ms. Wildcraft from Backyard Food Production put up a great little video about some plants that are useful and can really take the heat. If you want to skip to the part where she talks about cannas, that would be about five minutes into the video.

Covert Urban Homesteading, Part 1: Plants

Covert - Adjective: Not openly acknowledged or displayed

Homesteading - Noun: an act or instance of establishing a homestead.

     My yard is the nicest place in the neighborhood, the main reason why no one has complained yet about the vegetable garden in the front yard. Of course, it would probably matter more if a person could actually see the vegetables growing in the yard, but since most people do not know what vegetables look like, I haven't heard any complaints about them yet. So I have the vegetables growing in the flower beds that came to me with the house, things like sweet potatoes, cowpeas, sorghum, flax, and sunflowers. Also cannas, which double as a survival food source and more distracting foliage and flower. The vegetables are planted in circles around the bases of trees or in-line with the edges of the circular flower beds, so they don't stick out. Sorghum even looks like an attractive variety of one of those decorative grasses that people are endlessly planting.
     There may come a time where you can grow a garden, but you will have to work within very strict standards for unsightliness. For example, some neighborhoods may not allow rain barrels or compost piles. Both of these can be buried into the ground. It may not be the most desirable thing, but it's better than having no stored water and no compost, right? Also all garden beds should be edged, mulched, and manicured at all times. Covert urban gardening takes more time than regular gardening, and isn't for everyone.
     After the front yard gardens in Ann Arbor, Michigan, and Orlando, Florida, made the news, I checked out our county codes to see what they said about front yard gardens, animals, and easements. I won't bother you with the details, but for the most part, pretty lax on gardens but strict on animals, at least for residential areas. It wasn't too much later that a guy in Oregon or somewhere far away got busted for having unlicensed ponds, and just recently a couple in Orlando got busted for a front yard garden. But their front yard garden doesn't look like my front yard garden, which just makes me think they were DOING IT WRONG.

So here are my techniques in five easy steps...

     Step 1: Check your regional municipal codes. Each state, county, city, and suburb probably has its own rules, and don't forget your deed restrictions printed right on your deed! Don't fall into the trap as these unfortunate people have. Know your rights, then use them. Preferably to grow delicious food.

     Step 2: Check out what other people have in their yards. This serves many purposes. For example, you will get a feel for what grows very well in your climate with little care. Is that a persimmon over there, un-pruned and un-watered? Is that a pear tree? Does that neighbor down the street have a lot of edible native plants? Do you? If everyone has front yard gardens, then you are in the clear. If everyone has vegetables growing in buckets, then either you have a lot of renters or the soil won't grow those vegetables well so the neighbor is using store-bought stuff. If the neighbors all have manicured grasses with expensive, nursery-grown landscaping, it would be safe to say that some jerk will probably be unhappy with your rows of corn.

     Step 3: Do it slowly, and do it right the first time. Put in plants with careful thought as to how it will look once it is growing. No one wants to look at potato plants dying down for the season, but maybe the okra or peanuts will be big enough so no one will be able to see the potato plants.  Leave the plants that need trellising, which is considered unsightly, for the back or side yards, or just don't grow them. If you are starting with bare dirt or open grass, then build largish, circular, raised beds around productive trees. Some people call these plant guilds, or three sisters gardens.

     Step 4: Add Flowers. Since most people don't know what vegetables look like, they will think you are doing a lot with annuals every spring. Encourage that. Also put in attractive, edible perennials, like roses. The leaves are fodder for animals and the rose hips are a good food. Even bulbs like tulips or amaryllis can be cultivated and traded or sold, and they will encourage people to not notice all the other plants you are growing on. There are a ton of easy, edible perennials. Some people call this Permaculture.

     Step 5: Maintain. Mulch like crazy, it's good for the soil, and it looks nice. If you have a lot of foot traffic in a spot so the ground cover turns to dirt, then put some pavers there to keep up the place. Keep the remaining grass well-trimmed, and pick up the litter that floats into your yard. Rake fallen leaves into the flower beds as mulch. Or shred and compost as is your preference. Stagger your plantings so that your front yard has a lot of life in every part of the growing season. Some people call this biointensive farming.

Backyard Foraging

     I may have said it before, but the gentleman over at Eat the Weeds is doing some good work. This particular video is my favorite one yet.

Zingiber zerumbet, Ornamental Ginger, Pinecone Ginger

Uses: Xeriscaping, Edible, Forage, Medicinal. Native to : India, naturalized throughout the tropics.
     This plant is very striking even in a landscape filled with striking plants. It's no wonder the plant has traveled from India to now exist worldwide in tropical areas. The leaves grow several feet tall even in my shady, rainfall-irrigated  front yard. It does seem to prefer dampish, shady places, and would be a good choice for understory use.
     The leaves die back in the fall, but the plant returns from the rhizomes underneath the soil surface. The rhizome itself is a ginger and can be used in any way the ginger root is used. The leaves can be used as an herbal flavoring for cooked food. The red flower, not shown here, can be squeezed and the juices used as a natural shampoo, as it is high in saponins and smells wonderful.
     Medicinally the rhizome is used worldwide to treat inflammation and indigestion disorders. A good deal of research has been conducted, and the folk uses for soap ginger do hold up to science. Additionally, it has beneficial properties to maintain health, such as tumor and microbial suppression.
     I was unable to locate any research on whether soap ginger greens are safe to feed livestock, but since they are safe for humans, they are a good bet. I have given small quantities, about one leaflet a day, to my rabbits with no ill effects, in fact, even dried they are relished as a tasty treat. One can only assume that the leaves are completely safe since they are eaten by humans. (They ate one of the flowers too, with no problems!)